Once again, Steve Blecher's 53' J-160, Javelin takes a tried and true, mostly Dartmouth grad, crew on a Maine cruise. The Crew:
Steve (Dartmouth '64) boat Javelin, home port Westbrook, CT
Paul Wharton (Duke '64), boat Golden Eye, home port Stamford, CT
Jess Gregory, boat Sea Hawk, home port Keyport, NJ
Mark Gregory, Red Bank, NJ
Michael Luskin (Harvard '73) boat Turtleheart, home port Mamaroneck, NY
Rick Tonge, boat Juliet, home port Belgrade, ME
A classic Javelin Maine Cruise is in The Plan below. Head east to Buzzards Bay, through the Cape Cod Canal then on to Wentworth Marina at Portsmouth, New Hampshire before long legs to Maple Juice Cove and Northeast Harbor on Mt. Desert Island. After fuel and provisions Javelin's bow heads to farthest down-east Maine at Cross and Mink Islands, just a stones throw from Canadian waters. Returning west includes stops in Frenchman and Blue Hill Bays, then Bucks Harbor. The return continues west passing Mosquito Island and Port Clyde, Pemaquid Point, Boothbay Harbor, the Sheepscott River, and Cape Small to reach The Basin and Potts Harbor, the last stops in Maine. The return to Wentworth includes Sandwich at the Cape Cod Canal, and finally a long push home to Westbrook, 900 miles under the keel.
That was The Plan. You'll just have to read on to see what happened when the wind hit The Plan!
Pictures by Paul, Jess, Rick and Michael, and are grouped between days. There are even be a few movie clips too.
The table below summarizes daily runs and the date is a link to that day's log. Elasped time is generally time under way and has sometimes been adjusted for lunch stops. Cells with a darker background color represent changes from the original Plan.
Note: Day 15 Plan for Pott's Harbor skipped due to NE winds predicted for Wednesday. Schedule moved up 1 day.
Monday, Aug 1st
Hearty crew of Paul Wharton (executive chef supremeo), Jess Gregory, and Mark Gregory (pere et fils) were so well organized prior to 0600 that they enabled skipper Steve Blecher to get the very fully loaded SUV out of Steve's driveway in Scarsdale at 0645 and on the road.
Similar teamwork got Javelin underway from Pilots Point in Westbrook, CT at 0917 under overcast skies. Javelin has gone back to a two bladed prop (from a five blade MaxProp) so as to avoid capturing lobster pot lines in Maine.
So Javelin was off to Jamestown, RI as the initial port enroute to Maine at 8 knots at 2500 RPM, 500 RPM more than the five blade requires to do the same speed.
Unfortunately, the force(s) were agin us all day, fighting a substantial current that held our speed over ground to less than six knots for much of the way and the light wind chose to come from whatever direction the bow was pointing, so no sailing today.
Javelin entered Fishers Island Sound at 1252 and exited at Watch Hill at 1355, which was celebrated with several of Laurie Gregory's special chocolate chip cookies. Pt. Judith was rounded at 1655 and we entered the Newport, RI area by passing Rams Head and Castle Hill at 1722. We were on our mooring at Jamestown Boatyard at 1735 to enable Paul to prepare his gourmet lasagne for dinner.
Paul texted Rick to confirm oven settings for warming the lasagna, and also reported that it was overall a good day.
The skipper started making noise about 0550, allowing the crew to sleep in a bit, and everyone turned to in order to get breakfast going: cheerios, fruit, OJ, coffee, and topped off with Michael Luskin's gingerbread!
The Jamestown mooring was dropped at 0703 and we were off to the Cape Cod canal under sunny skies and a light but building westerly. Javelin cleared Newport Harbor at Castle Hill by 0720 and headed out into lumpy Rhode Island Sound. Turning east after passing Brenton Reef, the wind was too far aft to be useful.
We powered into Buzzards Bay, slowly turning northeast as the wind stayed way aft by going southwest and building to 20 knots as we got to the head of the Bay and the entrance to the Cape Cod canal at noon. The early departure enabled us to catch the tail end of the favorable current through the canal, which got us to the Sandwich marina at 1309 for fuel and then moving to slip C21. With the 20 knot wind and the narrow marina, the only way maneuver Javelin to her slip was by backing down the slipway.
The afternoon was spent exploring, cleaning, enjoying the air conditioned cabin, and addressing our empty propane tanks. Jay and Hasty Evans arrived about 1700 for cocktails and Jay and Steve went off in Hasty's Miata to a nearby gas station to fill our two propane tanks. Following cocktail hour, the group adjourned to the Pilot House restaurant for an outdoor dinner.
We were back aboard shortly after sunset for early bedtime in order to be rested for a very early morning departure.
Ending engine hours: 819.3
The early bird fishermen began departing Sandwich at 0415, which got the Javelin crew up and motivated. Coffee was brewed. We were off the dock at 0505 and heading into Cape Cod Bay at 0520 to catch the beauty of the sunrise.
There was a light northwesterly breeze, right on our nose as we turned north for Cape Ann, 55 miles distant. Then our Cheerios breakfast was served.
As the sun progressed across the southern sky, the day got warmer and the wind veered to north and then northeast. After we passed Cape Ann at 1214 and had another helping of Paul's lasagna, the wind filled in a bit from the east and we rolled out the jib for a little extra push.
Javelin arrived in Wentworth at 1515 and went directly to our slip (A34) where we filled the fuel and water tanks and hosed down.
Brian Klinger came aboard at 1700 with a couple of much needed supplies and initiated our cocktail hour, following which Brian and Lise hosted us for dinner at the Atlantic Grill.
Up with the brightening skies, the Javelin crew got underway with coffee at 0515 and out of Wentworth harbor at 0520 in light fog. As we moved out to sea, the sun rose, the fog lifted, and a light southwesterly arrived as we turned northeast for Muscongus Bay, Maine by rounding Phillips Rock at 0545. Boon Island passed the starboard beam at 0645 and then we saw nothing for the next 55 miles.
As the breeze picked up into the low teens, the ocean became lumpy and we rolled out the jib to add a half knot to our speed. Lunch was Michael Luskin's world class turkey chili!
As we entered Muscongus Bay from the Gulf of Maine, the wind rose into the high teens. So we shut down he engine and sailed under the jib alone at about 5 knots. After a half hour of this, the wind gods deserted us and the "four knot rule" required the engine to be re-engaged.
We decided to accept Bob Miller's recommendation and (instead of going up the St George River to Maple Juice Cove) kept to starboard to pick up a mooring by the Wyeth family estate on Benner Island for the night. That detour saved us about 7 miles up into Maple Juice Cove.
Chef Paul produced a pork chop dinner extraordinaire.
Mother Nature decided that Javelin needed a boat wash at 0610 accompanied by a short sound and light show. That roused the crew who took the opportunity for a late(?) departure to enjoy a breakfast of McHanks accompanied by Michael's gingerbread.
We were underway from picturesque George's Harbor at 0735 under overcast skies and headed up Penobscot Bay bucking the ebbing tide with no breeze. Then we turned right into Hurricane Sound.
At 1100 we were rafted to Hank and Rebecca Jonas' OnRush in Long Cove at the northern end of Hurricane Sound. They feted our crew with lobster rolls, cole slaw, potato salad, and blueberry pie. Hankpaddled around in the calm water, and even too a picture of the Javelin crew from the water, showing Steve, Mark, Jess and Paul.
After such a feast, it was with great reluctance (and near mutiny) that we had to take our leave at 1330 and head across windless Penobscot Bay to Safe Harbor Rockland.
On arrival at 1500, Michael Luskin was waiting. Paul, Jess, and Mark used Jess' car to make a provisioning run. Dinner was at Rustica.
Today the boat wash and sound and light show was at 0420, which got the crew scrambling to close the ports. Then a bit more rest before the call to brew the coffee and make breakfast.
Paul served scrambled eggs with chicken sausage. Sherry Tonge delivered husband Rick to us at 0730 just as we were bidding farewell to Jess and Mark Gregory. We got Rick's gear aboard, picked up our lines and were off the dock from Safe Harbor Rockland at 0747.
We headed east into a light easterly (of course) passing Owls Head at 0815, crossing Penobscot Bay and entering the Fox Island Thorofare at 0845.
Javelin motored past North Haven, exited the thorofare at 0950, crossed East Penobscot Bay, transited the Deer Island Thorofare past Stonington and out into Jericho Bay where we made sail at 1120 in 10 knots of southeasterly breeze. The wind was not sustained so we motored through the Casco Passage into Blue Hill Bay, where we resumed sailing east.
Then it happened - at about 1220 we snared not one but three lobster pots. We were unable to shake them off the rudder in light air, so we started the engine and backed down so the pot warps could slide down the rudder blade, which they did. Putting the engine back in forward resulted in the engine stalling. Something was wrapped on the propellor or shaft. Some more maneuvering freed us EXCEPT, in forward gear we could not advance the throttle beyond an idle. It was fine in neutral and reverse.
Rick and Michael descended below to investigate what was happening to the shift and throttle cables where they attached to the engine. Access to that point was nearly impossible - you had to be a contortionist to reach the affected spot. After about two hours of hot, hard work, Rick and Michael freed the cable such that we could motor at speed as long as somebody could reach into the engine compartment and shift gears if necessary.
Sails were lowered and we motored through the Bass Head passage and arrived in Northeast Harbor at 1530. We backed Javelin into her slip the way steamships of old maneuvered: via "speaking tube": the helmsman shouted commands for forward, neutral, or reverse to Michael who relayed them to Rick who reached into the engine compartment to move the transmission lever. We got the timing down such that we made a perfect landing.
Since our shore power cord had given us trouble in Rockland, we borrowed another one from the harbormaster so that we could run the air conditioning and refrigeration. Steve made several phone calls to try to find a mechanic, but on a summer Saturday afternoon nobody was answering their phone. It looked like we would be stuck until at least Monday.
Then Rick and Michael took problem in hand and attacked it with gusto. After four hours of analysis, contortions, and frustration with little parts that were difficult to disassemble and reassemble, they got the pieces back together and declared victory! After cleanup, the crew went to dinner at the Northeaster.
Coffee was brewed at 0610 followed by a cold cereal and fruit breakfast. Water and fuel tanks filled and holding tanks emptied enabled us to get underway from Northeast Harbor at 0833 and heading east with a southwest wind starting to fill in.
Once east of Lewis Rock at 0910, we made sail in 17 knots of southwest breeze and continued east. The wind built into the 20s and Javelin was flying along. After a few hours, we furled the jib and continued under mainsail alone.
At 1430 we turned north into Chandler Bay and sailed up the west side of Roque Island around its northwest corner to anchor on its north side in Shorey Cove at 1530. Bob and Maryann Miller arrived shortly after and we had an enjoyable rendezvous and pork chop dinner.
Although the crew was stirring in Shorey Cove at 0600 and the coffee was brewing, the breakfast of McHanks and gingerbread was stayed until the 0800 arrival of the Millers rowing over from Mast Transit. With overcast skies and a cool northeast breeze blowing, all enjoyed conversation over a second cup of coffee.
Both vessels were underway by 0945, with Mast Transit sailing west and Javelin making sail to head southeast to Machias Seal Island. We sailed down Englishman Bay on the east side of Roque Island and headed out into the ocean for the two hour boisterous close reach to the island.
We knew we had arrived at Machias Seal Island about 1300 when our phones received a text from Verizon welcoming us to Canada and warning that international service charges applied. We furled the jib and motor-sailed clockwise around the island noting its ample population of seals and puffins guarding the solitary light house and staff buildings for the Canadians who occupy the place. Completing our circle, we bore off across the Grand Manan Channel for Cross Island.
With 17 knots of northeast wind on a close reach, Javelin was boiling along hitting as much as 10 knots.
We dropped the sails outside the Cross Island passage at 1430 and motored into our favorite anchorage tucked behind Mink Island on the northeast side of Cross Island in the shadows of the US Navy's large communication facility on the Cutler peninsula. The hook was set shortly after 1500 and the anchor detail informed the skipper of the bad news and the good news: the skipper's beloved kellet was at the bottom of the bay, but the milk bottle and pebbles from which it was comprised were inexpensive. Captain Queeg's investigation could not affix responsibility.
The rain commenced at 0330, so we slept a bit later at our anchorage behind Mink Island. We got up about 0630 to "Maine Sushine", so breakfast was French toast consumed leisurely.
We hoisted the anchor at 0850 and headed into Machias Bay, believing the fog was lifting and the rain finished. Wrong on both counts. We headed west down Machias Bay passing Libby Island lighthouse at 0947 and out into the ocean headed west.
The fog lifted, the rain ceased, and there was no wind, but large seas continued to roll in from the southwest all day. We think we made more vertical mileage than horizontal mileage today.
By 1255 we were off Moosepeak light, which offered the option of heading in to Mistake Harbor. But it was still early in the day, so we decided to continue on west for Frenchman Bay while Paul served up a warm lunch of franks and beans topped off with a chocolate chip cookie.
At 1355 we turned to starboard at Schoodic Point and headed up Frenchman Bay, passing between Egg Rock and the west side of Ironbound island. The high speed "Cat" that runs between Bar Harbor and Yarmouth Nova Scotia was just departing and went by us at 33 knots. We held to the east side of Frenchman Bay and were on our anchor in Stave Harbor at 1527. We are expecting a northeast breeze tonight.
The Stave Harbor lobstermen began harvesting traps around us at 0530. By 0630, they had several boats and teams out purse seining the harbor for bunker bait fish for their traps. We roused to overcast skies and cereal for breakfast and were underway at 0825 headed down Frenchman Bay.
We cleared the Bay at 0940 as the skies turned partly sunny and went through Eastern Way and Western Way to the Bass Head Harbor bar and into Blue Hill Bay at 1100. There we made sail in a 9 knot southerly breeze and put up the spinnaker for a slow run up Blue Hill Bay.
We crossed paths with Mast Transit as we gybed up the bay between Long Island and the west side of Bartlett Island. We reached the north end of Bartlett Island at 1350 and dropped the sails before motoring into Galley Cove to pick up a mooring for a lunch stop at 1410. With the water temperature at 72 degrees in Galley Cove, Michael and Rick decided to take an invigorating swim around Javelin.
Following a lunch of Paul's lasagna, Javelin was underway again at 1515 and made sail for a beat down the west side of Long Island. A delightful sail in 9 knots of breeze with Javelin going to windward at 8 knots. We were on the anchor in Allen Cove at 1735. Mast Transit pulled in a few minutes later and both crews gathered on Javelin for a steak dinner.
One of the many benefits of being anchored in Allen Cove is the absence of any lobstermen working pots in the morning. We slept in until at least 0700 and then it was a "buffet" breakfast of cereal, McHanks, ginger cake, etc.
Another day that commenced with difficult choices to be made by the crew. Bob Miller noticed the activity and rowed over with his coffee cup to chat. Paul's inflatable kayak was assembled and launched with Paul dispatched to locate proper sized precious stones along the beach to weigh down the new kellet. He returned an hour later with the kellet bottle filled with "pieces of eight." The new kellet was assembled and stowed for use at tonight's anchorage.
Michael undertook repairs to the cover to the anchor windlass control plug. The anchor was weighed at 1015 and we made sail at 1030 in a light southeasterly on which we beat south down Blue Hill Bay. Boat speeds approximated true wind speeds that ranged from 4 to 8 knots. There were not many other boats sailing in the light conditions.
By 1330, following a lunch of custom sandwiches produced by Paul, we were at the south end of the bay, south of Placentia Island and the wind had increased to 11 knots and fog was threatening to roll in from the ocean. We gybed and headed north back up the bay and set the spinnaker. By keeping the mainsail trimmed amidships, we were able to keep the chute full with the wind dead aft and proceeded up the bay - for an hour.
Then the breeze fizzled. We toyed with 3 to 6 knots of zephyrs for an hour against an ebbing current. We knew it was time to throw in the towel when things got so still and flat that we could hear the porpoises breathing and the seals barking at the gulls. With no steerage way to dodge the lobster pots, we furled the sails at 1535 and motored into the Moose Island cove to anchor at 1612 for the night. The kellet was deployed and the fin delta riding sail set.
Spaghetti and meatballs accompanied by salad highlighted dinner following 'tails.
Dawn broke over Moose Island but the fog was so thick it felt like gray cotton. We slept late and had cereal for breakfast. By 0800, we were able to discern the outlines of treetops and shoreline, so we bagged the riding sail, hoisted the kellet and the anchor, turned on the radar and by 0830 were headed out for Northeast Harbor.
There was no breeze, so we motored south to the Bass Head Harbor passage. Passing through at 0935 (there are no pictures of the lighthouse because it was still too foggy to see it) we continued east to the Western Way entrance to Northeast Harbor. The fog lifted as we started up Western Way, and we were secure at the Northeast Harbor pumpout dock at 1030 and in our B00 slip at 1050.
We filled water tanks, disposed of a week's worth of trash, made a run to the Pine Tree Market and were ready for lunch by 1230. After lunch was laundry and shower time.
The day began prior to sunrise as Michael packed up his gear to be picked up by Mos'z Taxi for the ride from Northeast Harbor to Bangor airport. Taxi was on time at 0515 and we wished Michael a safe flight. After a short nap and breakfast, Javelin departed Northeast Harbor at 0757 under clear skies and a northerly breeze. The breeze did not last and we motored westward.
We received an email from Michael at 0945 that he was in New York as we were transiting the Casco Passage. Javelin headed NW up Eggemoggin Reach, slipping under the Deer Island bridge at 1103, and on our mooring in Bucks Harbor at 1137.
Bob Miller from Mast Transit rowed over to say "hello." They were heading down to Steve Island in Merchants Row.
After a soup lunch, we fueled and borrowed a dinghy. At 1330 we left the dinghy on the mooring and went out for a short sail in a light westerly. We were back on our mooring at 1510, cleaned up, and rowed ashore to await pickup by Dan Paduano at 1600.
Dan gave us a tour of Cape Rosier, including the reversing falls stream that flows into Holbrook Harbor, as we drove back to his house. Dan and Nancy Paduano have a magnificent home on 25 acres of Cape Rosier that was constructed from the siding of four old collapsed barns. Nancy had prepared quite the feast for us. Steve and Dan drove to the lobsterman at the head of the Cape to pick up the victims of our lobster dinner. Nancy led Rick and Paul on a tour of their grounds including a trek down the hill to the shore of Penobscot Bay. Upon their return, Paul and Rick helped Nancy prepare a lobster feast including corn picked at noon, garden vegetables and potatoes, and fresh blueberry pie!
After dinner, Dan loaned us Nancy's new Jeep Wagoneer so we could drive back to Bucks Harbor and row out to Javelin as the full moon was rising.
Up and underway before sunrise. Rick rowed the borrowed dinghy back to the dock at Bucks Harbor and we backed in to the face of the fuel dock to permit him to step aboard Javelin's swim platform before we headed out into Penobscot Bay at 0517.
No wind so we were motoring on glassy waters heading for The Basin on the New Meadows River just east of Brunswick, ME. Javelin cleared Cape Rosier at 0608 and turned southwest, passing the Fox Island Thorofare at 0741. Continuing southwest, we were out of Penobscot Bay at Old Man at 1031 and into the Gulf of Maine.
Our course took us south of Seguin Island, which we passed at 1315. The afternoon southwest breeze filled in just before that, so we made sail and were quickly moving faster under sail than we had been under power. We sailed west past Cape Small at 1348 and chose to enjoy playing with the wind before heading upriver.
We finally entered the New Meadows River at 1430, furled the jib, and continued sailing up the river under mainsail alone for five miles. After dousing the mainsail abeam of Cundy's Harbor at 1530, we entered The Basin on the eastern shore of the river and were on our anchor in the northern portion of The Basin at 1600 with the kellet deployed.
We relaxed for a couple of hours and then the crew studied the weather outlook for the next few days. Beginning Tuesday afternoon and for all day Wednesday the forecast becomes unpleasant. Following a quick conversation, we decided that the most comfortable course of action was to advance our plans by one day and head south at crack of dawn tomorrow. Phone calls were made and reservations adjusted. Paul prepared an excellent chicken dinner.
The entrance to The Basin is a rock ledge that has just less than 7 feet of water over it at low tide. Javelin draws 7 feet 2 inches. Low tide was at 0830 this morning. We needed to be across that ledge with a comfortable margin on a falling tide. So, crew roused, we hauled anchor at 0510 and were out of The Basin at 0520 and heading down the New Meadows River ten minutes later to watch the sun rise.
At 0621 we exited the river at its mouth and aimed 235 degrees magnetic for the next 50 miles headed for Portsmouth/Wentworth, NH. Breakfast enroute, and Paul made tuna fish sandwiches for lunch to fortify the crew for our 1315 arrival in Wentworth. Javelin was fueled and we made her fast at the end of E Dock, ready for an early morning departure/dash to the Cape Cod Canal.
Brian Klinger came aboard for evening 'tails before we adjourned to the Latitudes restaurant for dinner where Lise joined us.
As the eastern sky lightened and there was no fog and light breeze, the crew roused and cast off from Wentworth Marina at 0530. We rode the sluice of the ebbing tide to the mouth of the harbor and at 0538 settled on our southerly course towards Cape Ann.
Enjoyed a beautiful sunrise and studied the weather forecasts and the clouds for hints of the weather for the next 24 hours. There was a fog bank astern and to the west of us that never enveloped us.Passing Cape Ann's twin lighthouses at 0840, we altered course to 191 for the Cape Cod Canal.
At 0940, south of Cape Ann, an uninvited aviator in form of a pigeon landed under our dodger. He joined a bee that was hitching a ride aboard and a Monarch butterfly that was escorting us. The pigeon was not a paying passenger but had a band on each leg. Rick examined the bands to discern the numbers and found a website to make a report. We learned that the bird had been banded in 2022 in the vicinity of Auburn, MA. The bird chose to enjoy the comfort of our dodger and transportation across Massachusetts Bay and Cape Cod Bay and did not depart until we entered the canal.
The wind built from the northeast during the day and we unfurled the jib at 1005 but gave up that idea shortly after noon as there was not enough apparent wind pressure to overcome the rolling from the building seas. We entered the Cape Cod Canal at 1530 and were secure in slip D-14 in Sandwich Marina at 1538.
Dinner was Michael's chili preceded by chef Paul's cocktail hour presentation of deviled eggs.
It was dark (running lights required) when we slipped out of Sandwich Marina at 0505 into the Cape Cod Canal headed west. We had roused at 0420 and studied the weather radar to find ourselves nestled between green (wet) patches to our east, south and west with a 15 knot northerly blowing. We considered various options and decided to dress for wet and move on out into Buzzards Bay. We exited the canal and cleared Wing Neck at 0611 and headed down Buzzards Bay.
Our luck was holding - no rain, northerly breeze, and a rainbow after sunrise over New Bedford. We rolled out the jib to add a half knot of speed and reached the west end of Buzzards Bay at 0844, heading for Point Judith 22 miles away. We gained Pt Judith at 1124 and aimed for Watch Hill, 16 miles distant. Still dry - and actually sunny.
The wind faded and we furled the jib at 1218. Entering Fishers Island Sound at Watch Hill at 1315 we motored on west, clearing out of the Sound at 1405, still dry.
Luck expired at 1540 when a rain squall from the north rolled over us, but it was short lived. By 1551, we had passed the east end of Long Sand Shoal, dealing with another squall shortly thereafter. A third bout of light rain arrived as we were entering Westbrook about 1700.
Great teamwork among the crew had us secure in our slip at 1709. Chili for dinner!!!
Completion of another great cruise adventure to the coast of Maine. Special thanks to each of the crew members who made this trip so enjoyable, to Paul Wharton, our executive chef, and to Rick Van Mell, our California based webmaster who overcame all sorts of technical obstacles to post this log and pictures in a timely manner.
You can't keep a good crew down. We could not help ourselves rousing at 0530.
So it was an early final breakfast to devour the last of the milk, cereal, and OJ. Then the load-out to the car began: kayak, personal gear, bedding, towels, other laundry, cooler full of food, etc.
We met with Kip Wiley, the Pilots Point service manager, to review the List of things to get fixed. Kip also provided a jump start for Steve's SUV whose battery had gone completely dead over the three weeks it was sitting parked.
With the car running, we departed Pilots Point at 0810 to drop Rick Tonge off at Union Station in New Haven at 0850, where he caught the train to Boston connecting to a bus to Augusta, ME. Steve and Paul drove to Scarsdale and started the laundry process.
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