The Desolation Sound Cruise with the New York Yacht Club fleet first sprang to life at the end of 2019. Up to 14 boats were to cruise in company for two weeks between 8/29 and 9/11 2020 from Bellingham, Washington north into Canadian waters to Desolation Sound and the mighty rapids and currents with names like Porlier Pass, Yuculta Rapids, Gilliard Pass, Dodd Narrows and Obstruction Pass. Some could run at 8 - 10 knots so routes and times had to be calculated to arrive at the passes at slack water. Steve had chartered the Grand Banks 53' Bonam Vite from Northwest Explorations in Bellingham. Then COVID hit and the border was closed.
Steve regrouped and rescheduled Desolation Sound for the three weeks 8/14 to 9/3 in 2021 to include the same waters as above. This time adding a trip to Princess Louisa Inlet, traversing Malibou Rapids to reach Chatterbox Falls, plus Beasley Passage and Hole in the Wall rapids. Bonam Vite was not available, but 46' Zaya was. The routes were planned and the reservations made by December of 2020.
But COVID spiked, and month, by month, the likelyhood of the Canadian border being open began to fade. Time for Plan B. Puget Sound and particularly the San Juan Islands are themselves on the bucket list of many a cruiser. So ports and routes were calculated once again. Other than Deception Pass, not much in the way of nasty currents here. But there is beautiful cruising and historic marine ports down to Gig Harbor, Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, and Lake Union/Lake Washington that make for a great 505 mile cruise plan.
So here we are in 2021 and once again, Steve Blecher takes a tried and true Javelin crew on a summer cruise. The Crew:
Steve (Dartmouth '64) boat Javelin, home port Westbrook, CT
Rick Van Mell (Dartmouth '63), boat Vanishing Animal, home port San Francisco Bay
Paul Wharton (Duke '64), boat Golden Eye, home port Stamford, CT
Jess Gregory, boat Sea Hawk, home port Keyport, NJ
Here is the The Plan, and Shopping List, but you'll just have to read on to see what happened when the wind hit The Plan! and Shopping List,
...Well, here's the Actual Meal Plan.
Something new this trip is that we have added daily log pages that cover the table of log entries shown below. In the Ships Log, look for the tabs at the bottom of the Summary Page where you will find the Detail Route Page, followed by a page for each date. The Detail Route Page shows where departure timing is based on arriving at a "Gate" at a specified time. It also allows for expected currents in transit to the Gate, and calculates fuel consumption from the table at the top of the page. The individuale date pages (e.g. 8/15) show the detailed log entries for that day. So enjoy the new Ships Log.
Pictures by Jess Gregory, Paul Wharton and Rick Van Mell, and are grouped between days. There may be even be a few movie clips too.
The table below summarizes daily runs and the date is a link to that day's log. Elasped time is generally time under way and has sometimes been adjusted for lunch stops. Cells with a darker background color represent changes from the original Plan.
Log Summary
Day |
Date |
From |
To |
Depart |
Arrive |
Elapsed |
Plan |
Track |
Ave |
Engine |
Engine |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Miles |
Miles |
Speed |
Hour |
Time |
|
|
|
|
|
|
HH:MM |
NM |
NM |
Knots |
Meter |
Hours |
| | | | | | | | | | 714.3 | |
1 | Sat 8/14 | Bellingham | Bellingham | - | - | - | 0 | | - | 251.6 | 0 |
2 | Sun 8/15 | Bellingham | Anacortes Cap Sante | 9:11 | 13:00 | 3:49 | 16 | 22.9 | 6 | 255.8 | 4.2 |
3 | Mon 8/16 | Anacortes Cap Sante | Port Townsend Point Hudson | 7:06 | 10:32 | 3:26 | 31 | 30.3 | 8.8 | 259.7 | 3.9 |
4 | Tue 8/17 | Port Townsend Point Hudson | Pleasant Hbr Marina | 8:40 | 13:10 | 4:30 | 36 | 36.4 | 8.1 | 264.8 | 5.1 |
5 | Wed 8/18 | Pleasant Hbr Marina | Shilshole Bay Marina | 9:30 | 14:37 | 5:07 | 46 | 43.9 | 8.6 | 270.3 | 5.5 |
6 | Thu 8/19 | Shilshole Bay Marina | Shilshole Bay Marina | 7:34 | 13:53 | 6:19 | 33 | 35.4 | 5.6 | 278 | 7.7 |
7 | Fri 8/20 | Shilshole Bay Marina | Jarrell's Cove Mooring | 8:02 | 15:00 | 6:58 | 48 | 46.18 | 6.6 | 285.3 | 7.3 |
8 | Sat 8/21 | Jarrell's Cove Marina | Olympia Percival Landing | 8:08 | 10:17 | 2:09 | 8 | 17.2 | 8 | 287.7 | 2.4 |
8a | Sat 8/21 | Olympia Percival Landing | Gallagher Cove/ Totten Inlet | 13:50 | 15:26 | 1:36 | 0 | 12.5 | 7.8 | 289.7 | 2 |
9 | Sun 8/22 | Gallagher Cove/ Totten Inlet | Quartermastr Harbor | 8:19 | 11:45 | 3:26 | 28 | 30.5 | 8.9 | 0 | 0 |
9a | Sun 8/22 | Gallagher Cove/ Totten Inlet | Gig Harbor Arabella's Lnd. | 12:50 | 13:36 | 0:46 | 0 | 5.3 | 6.9 | 294.5 | 4.8 |
10 | Mon 8/23 | Gig Harbor Arabella's Lnd. | Keyport Guest Dock | 7:44 | 10:57 | 3:13 | 29 | 26.4 | 8.2 | 0 | 0 |
10a | Mon 8/23 | Keyport Gues Dock | Poulsbo Marina | 13:38 | 14:01 | 0:23 | 0 | 2 | 5.2 | 298.3 | 3.8 |
11 | Tue 8/24 | Poulsbo Marina | Oak Harbor Marina | 7:16 | 13:15 | 5:59 | 48 | 48.6 | 8.1 | 304.6 | 6.3 |
12 | Wed 8/25 | Oak Harbor Marina | Lopez Sound (at anchor) | 6:39 | 10:54 | 4:15 | 29 | 38.1 | 9 | 309.4 | 4.8 |
13 | Thu 8/26 | Lopez Sound (at anchor) | Reid Hbr/ Sturt I (at anchor) | 8:48 | 12:05 | 3:17 | 24 | 22.7 | 6.9 | 312.8 | 3.4 |
14 | Fri 8/27 | Reid Hbr/ Sturt I (at anchor) | Sucia Island (at anchor) | 8:00 | 11:46 | 3:46 | 16 | 26.1 | 6.9 | 316.4 | 3.6 |
15 | Sat 8/28 | Sucia Island (at anchor) | Blind Bay - Lunch | 8:48 | 11:22 | 2:34 | 35 | 21.2 | 8.3 | 319.4 | 3 |
15a | Sat 8/28 | Blind Bay - Lunch | Blid Bay - after West Sound | 14:12 | 15:35 | 1:23 | 35 | 7.2 | 5.2 | 320.9 | 1.5 |
16 | Sun 8/29 | Blind Bay | Port of Friday Harbor | 7:54 | 11:05 | 3:11 | 20 | 24.4 | 7.7 | | 0 |
17 | Mon 8/30 | Port of Friday Harbor | Roche Harbor | 10:09 | 11:35 | 1:26 | 11 | 11.2 | 7.8 | 326.4 | 1.8 |
18 | Tue 8/31 | Roche Harbor | Garrison Bay (at anchor) | 9:20 | 10:16 | 0:56 | 5 | 4.4 | 4.7 | 0 | 0 |
18a | Tue 8/31 | Garrison Bay (at anchor) | Spencer Spit | 12:36 | 15:32 | 2:56 | 0 | 23.3 | 7.9 | 330.5 | 4.1 |
19 | Wed 9/1 | Spencer Spit | West Sound Public Dock | 8:10 | 9:33 | 1:23 | 20 | 9.3 | 6.7 | 332 | 1.5 |
19a | Wed 9/1 | West Sound Public Dock | Rosario Resort | 11:54 | 13:14 | 1:20 | 0 | 9.1 | 6.8 | 333.4 | 1.4 |
20 | Thu 9/2 | Rosario Resort | Portage channel - lunch | 9:08 | 11:56 | 2:48 | 22 | 21.5 | 7.7 | 336.3 | 2.9 |
20a | Thu 9/2 | Portage channel - lunch | Bellingham | 13:45 | 14:16 | 0:31 | | 5.3 | 10.3 | 337.5 | 1.2 |
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | Totals: | 505 | 581.38 | 7.5 | | 85.9 |
Saturday, Aug 14th
We landed in two groups. Steve, Paul and Jess touched down at SEA about 1000 having spent 6 hours in the sky, having gotten up a 3:00 am. Rick landed about 1030 from SFO. We connected between baggage claims 14 and 15, and were heading out to get the rental car about 1100. Well....... it took over 50 minutes to get through the 100+ person line to even get onto the Rental Car Sulttle Bus. The good news is that Steve is Hertz Gold Card and we were able to go to the pickup desk as soon as we arrived.
Finally on the road just at noon, our multiple GPS cell phones predicted an arival at Northwest Exporations office in Bellingham, WA at 2:00 - exactly when Steve had said we would arrive.
Arrive we did at 1355 and Casy showed us the ropes. We needed the gate code to get onto the dock and the restrooms at the head of the dock.
We lugged our bags aboard and then had our our orientation. Bryan looked at us and said, "I don't think I need to tell you that the pointed end is the bow." We did spend two hours going over every inch of Zaya, stem to stern, fly bridge to bilge, including crawing into the engine room to acquaint us with all of the challenges of a new boat.
Naively, we thought we could do our food shopping in short order. The Shopping Plan suggested about 20 items from Costo and 80 from Safeway. Well, picture 4 old farts with relay carts going though Costo because they wouldn't let anyone check out with more than two cases of water! The relay continued and we departed Costco about 5:45 - 15 minutes before they closed. We took it all back to the boat, and then headed out to Safeway for the rest. Long story short it was just after 2000 when we got the food aboard.
At one moment we thought about going out to dinner instead of the "Meal Plan" steak dinner. But, being increasingly more tired, we opted for Steve's top choice of a comfort food dinner of spaghetti and meal balls with salad. We all tucked in by 2000.
SEA Car Rental Shuttle Line ... |
Steve, (Rick's bag), Paul, Jess |
Northwest Explorations office ... |
unloading bags ... |
Dock code ... |
off to Zaya ... |
carts full ... |
handing gear aboard. |
He could care less. |
Boat tour ... |
helm station ... |
starboard dining ... |
includes icemaker ... |
looking forward ... |
Rick's cabin ... |
Jess is forward ... |
Washer - dryer ... |
forward head ... |
looking aft ... |
to Steve's master ... |
stateroom ... |
lots of water ... |
closet space ... |
forward head ... |
Galley & breads ... |
fridge is FULL ... |
square hatch ... |
is freezer. |
Go To Log Summary
Sunday, August 15th
Whether it was anticipation, or 20 years of sailing with Steve, somehow we were all awake by 0630. No big deal. Yogurt, OJ and coffee for breakfat (thanks to Paul for setting up the coffee maker.)
We did an "anchor" drill where we lowered the anchor, and Rick moved it across the dock so we could test the rigging the anchor bridal.
Steve walked us through a last checkoff of all the systems we needed to account for. Then we singled up all lines and cast off for our adventure.
Much as Steve in his usual fashion wanted to get under way as early as possible, there was an obvious fog on the outer waters when we woke up.
It was 0911 when we finally cast off. South wind on the nose made it a little lumpy, but still comfortable aboard Zaya.
We powered south down Bellingham Bay following the routes on Rick's computer. Though Zaya has brand new, beautiful Garmin navigation instruments, the autopilot does not link to a chartplotter, it just maintains a magnetic (or true) course. Thus there is no correction for the set and drift of any currents and we adjusted manually if the ship's position started drifting off the intended route.
Steve had originally thought about testing the dinghy launching just outside Bellingham harbor, but a choppy sea and cold wind discouraged us. But just over an hour after getting under way, the breeze lightened and we detoured to the protected waters of Samish Bay and drifted at idle. With Steve supervising, Paul ran the lift while Jess removed the lashings that hold the dinghy on deck. Easily and smoothly the dinghy rose, was swung over the side and lowered into the water. Steve and Jess dis a short loop around the boat, declared victory, and the dinghy was hoisted safely back on board.
It was an easy run the last few miles into Anacortes, and at 1144 we sighted snow capped Mt. Baker poking through the clouds to the east. We arriving off the Anacortes entrance at 1205 only to learn that our slip was still occupied and we would have to wait until after 1300 to come in. Retracing our track back about 10 minutes brought us to the shelter of Long Bay for lunch sandwiches. We were tucked in our slip by 1330.
Whle Rick worked on the log, Jess and Paul made various trips to West Marine and a hardware store, plus Paul went to Safeway and picked out a beautiful large Coho salmon for dinner. Because we were in a marina slip we were not authorized to cook on the gas grill on deck. Zaya did not have a large enough broiler pan for the salmon so that was on Paul's list too. We carefully measued the oven and reported to Paul that the maximun width was 15" by 13" deep. So Paul grabbed a 15 x 10 baking sheet and returned to the boat. However, it turned out that the INSIDE flat part of the sheet was 15 x 10, but with the edges it was 17". Another round trip solved the problem.
With Paul's signature Veri Veri Teriaki sauce and garlic seasoning the salmon was perfectly cooked as you can see in the pictures below.
Ready to depart ... |
the computers ... |
prepare to cast off ... |
under way ... |
Commodore Steve ... |
John McColloch's Sarah Brooks New York YC |
heading out ... |
Spanish Galleon? |
up close. |
Harbor entrance. |
out to sea. |
Making 8.5 knots. |
Up to the Fly Bridge ... |
Jess, Paul Steve ... |
clear sailing. |
Bellingham to Anacortes |
tanker on AIS |
sighted ... |
closer ... |
abeam. |
Detour for dinghy practice |
Steve supervises ... |
Paul's up top ... |
Jess unties ... |
starting to hoist ... |
swing it out ... |
lower away ... |
getting aboard ... |
off for a ride ... |
passing the bow. |
Setting burgee |
Back on the Route |
Mt Baker abeam. |
Anacortes lunch stop |
just made ... |
sandwiches. |
Jess enjoys |
Rick at window |
In Anacortes harbor. |
Dockside ... |
mighty crew ... |
Dockside ... |
Looking great! |
Alliance - 133' |
Illegally cooking on grill in port |
Happy Steve |
We toast to Steve! |
Paul's ... |
fresh Coho Salmon... |
additional kick ... |
is delicious! |
Fantastic dinner. |
Add veggies. |
Wonderful Harbor ... |
Good night all. |
Go To Log Summary
Monday, August 16th
0606 is not early by Steve's Javelin standards, but it's still not great. A Cheerios breakfast with blueberries, strawberries, rasins and cranberries was cleared by 0645 and we were under way by 0706 headed for Port Townsend.
It was cloudy with light wind and the peaks of the mountains to the east were a black sawtooth against the cold morning sky. We turned into Gumes Channel heading west, Rick again reading the headings of each leg of the route that Steve dialed in on the fly bridge. Steve's goal was to clear Pt. Wilson on the south side of Admiralty Inlet before the current turned against us at noon. Our planning guide said we could leave as late as 0837 and make it, but Steve preferred the zero-dark-thiry approach.
Turning south into Rosario Strait we were now bucking a bit less than a knot of current, but more obvious were the swells. Steve increased the throttle to 1600 to maintain 8 - 9 knots over the bottom. Swells coming the full fetch of the Straits of Juan de Fuca aim at Whidbey Island some wrap around the bottom of Lopez Island into the bottom of Rosario Strait. The wind increased to 10 - 12 and, as we neared the bottom of Lopez and could look into Juan de Fuca, the beam seas took their toll on Zaya. The knife block tumbled into the gally sink - we left it there. We dialed the speed back to 1300 and now the current began to turn in our favor as the rising tide swept into Admiralty Inlet past Point Wilson. At Pt. Partridge, we turned with the current to cross Admiralty inlet and, with the throttles still at 1300, were cruising between 10 - 11 knots. The churning seas quickly subsided and the rest of the ride was pleasant.
It was a short ride between Pt. Wilson and Pt. Hudson and our marina. We arrived at 1032, well ahead of Steve's tide turn target. All cheked in and roast beef sandwiches consumed by 1300, the crew toured the town. The great old victorian houses along Water Street were fun, but Rick and Jess had a different destination.
The crew knew of the video series on the restoration of the 1910 cutter Tally Ho, found by many boat lovers on line. Jess went ashore to inquire while Rick worked on the log aboard. Jes asked and walked, eventually covering about a mile down Water street, with some tentative indications that Tally Ho was at the Port Townsend city marina along with many old boats that were being restored. Jess returned to our Hudson Pt. Marina and called Rick with the news.
So Rick went ashore and, after a quick return to the boat to get a face mask - Jefferson County had just declared that everyone must wear a mast indoors, they started walking west on their quest. Through town past a dozen beautifully restored Victorian building fronts they walked. Then below the 150 foot high sandstone bluffs on shore and the giant driftwood logs, measuring up to 4' on the beach they tecked on, stopping at a small mall. An electric bicycle vendor gave some credence, that it "might be" about 3/4 mile down the road. On we trudged.
The road turned; we crossed a water launching ramp for trailer boats, and there asked another tall, thin muscular guy if he knew about Tally Ho. He pointed to a yellowish building with a reddish roof, and said, "She's over there." As tired as our feet were, we walked another quarter mile. Jess knew there was a working shed-type building that adjoined the main shed. We entered the spralling Port Townsend boat yard, the rough stones easily felt through our thin-soled topsiders, and marveled at the great old boats with work being done on them.
We found the yellow sided building with the red roof - which way to go around it? Then there it was. The metal shed attached to the main building. The old band saw that could cut compound angles, and the planer that could turn rough timber into beautifully smooth, exact dimension boards for finished construction. Three guys were working a pile of wood. We stood, and watched, and waited until they had finished their conversation and started to move on. We asked, "Is this the home of Tally Ho?" "Yes." We asked if we could peak in. The tall thin guy said it was too full of stuff. We persisted a little. The friendly guy, that we later realized was featured in many of the videos, allowed, that "Maybe you could try the door at the end of the shed, over there."
With profuse thanks we walked the 50 feet around the corner of the building. There the doors, 30' high and 20' wide open exposed the view inside. As if on a boat sales showroom floor, there weas Tally Ho in all her glory, not a stick of anything around her. Topsides were white and bottom a red-lead color. The seams between the planks, carefully cut on the giant saw, and would have been originally filled with oakum and tar, were still open. We didn't know what was coming next.
Elated, happy, but now very foot-weary, we contemplated the 1.6 mile walk back to Pt Hudson Marina and Zaya. As we walked, slowly out of the boatyard, Jess tried to ask every car if they were going to town. Step after step we slowly walked back. Where Water Street again jpoined the boatyard road, Jess stuck our his thumb. A passing car gave him a "thumbs up" in return. Jess mumbled that maybe nobody knowe what hitch hiking is today!
Once past the first (and maybe only) stoplight into the town, Ww spotted a frozen yogurt sign and we indulged and sat down for a brief respite. Then, as we continued, the temperature had fallen from 67 to 62 and the wind increased to about 20 knots from the north. One last stop at the wooden boat building foundation headquarters found a "scrap bin" outside where Jess reminded Rick that he wanted something to prop open the hatch over his bunk. A bunch of dumpster diving found 3 perfect pieces and we brought them back aboard.
The Plan called for dinner at Doc's Marina Restaurant, but they were booked up, however Steve and Pual discovered that the Shanghi Chinese restaurant right next door would deliver. Rick & Jess confirmed that on their way back to the boat, and so we called in early for an 1800 delivery. Sure enough, right on time there was a call dockside and our hot dinner arrived on time. Good, but maybe not 5 star.
"Ready?" Paul asks ... |
"Let's go," said Steve |
Escort boat? |
Happy ladies! |
Looking east. |
Gumes Channel |
San Juans ferry |
Burrows I. light |
Looking out Juan de Fuca |
Olympic mountains ... |
southern end |
Tug and ... |
barge. |
Another good look. |
Pt. Partridge |
Pt. Wilson ... |
from inside ... |
closer look. |
Point Hudson marina ... |
entrance ... |
in our slip. |
Guardian gulls. |
Pt. Hudson Hbr. |
Nice Yawl |
Old City Hall ... |
Sign |
First of many ... |
another ... |
more ... |
and more ... |
Pt. Townsend Marina great old boats ... |
hard at work ... |
great shape ... |
and another ... |
Tally Ho workshop ... |
great saw ... |
planer team ... |
Tally Ho |
Ship mural |
back to harbor ... |
History. |
Old sheds ... |
Doc's restaurant. |
It's a ??? ... |
yawl! |
and Zaya. |
NYYC Burgee it's blowing! |
Go To Log Summary
Tuesday, August 17th
We backed out of the slip at 0822 and Steve carefully pivoted Zaya as the crew moved fenders and dock lines from starboard to port so we could lay alongside the opposite shore dock to pump out the holding tank. It was a very tight fit with the bowsprit of a beautiful schooner just at Zaya's bow and the pilings of the marina at the stern. Using the new boathook, we got a spring line on the dock and Steve did the rest to gently lay us right alongside. Nicely done!
By 0840 we were under way for Pleasant Harbor. It was flat calm, flat grey skies, and cool. By 0922 there was light rain as we approached the Port Townsend Canal, but it cleared by the time we as passed Klas Rocks at 0956. The current was with us and we easily made 8 - 9 knots at 1200 engine RPMs as we passed Point Hannon at the entrance to Hood Canal. Our crew mused about why this is called the "Hood Canal." It is natural, not dug. It is very deep, over 400 feet in many places, and eventually, it is a dead end with no outlet. Go figure!
There is an ingenious bridge however. With the great depths, a pontoon bridge was built that floats on the surface - and rises and falls over a ten foot range with the tide. At the eastern and western shores there are truss bridges with vertical clearances of 55' and 35' respectively. Both eands are pictured below. the center section can be opened for larger vessels - particularly since the US Navy has a base at Kitsap that handles nuclear submarines. We didn't see any navy vessels, but still stood far off the shore at the outer edges of the "operational areas" marked on the charts.
We cleared Hazel Point at the southern end of the "canal" section and pulled the throttles back to idle and about 4 knots as we enjoyed a Chinese lunch. The deep green lower elevations of the Olympic mountain range rolled to the shore. Higher elevations still poked into the clouds, but as we closed in on Pleasant Harbor, sunshine splashed a valley here and there and by the time we eased into the harbor we had bright sunshine.
Steve had called in to confirm our slip as A 8 at the far end of the harbor. Two dockside skippers were standing by to take our lines as we arrived. Given Zaya's high freeboard and the difficulty, not to mention, risk, of jumping onto docks, we had generally perfected our technique of Rick looping a line over a cleat and Steve working against it to bring Zaya neatly alongside where it was easy to just step off and finish tying up. But with two dock hands ready it didn't seem needed. As usual, we cautioned the line handlers not to pull on any lines until asked and Steve neatly pivoted Zaya around the end of the finger dock and alongside the slip without so much as a tug on any line. All the more impressive becuase there was another Grand Banks in the double slip just 3 feet away on the port side. Nice work Steve.
Secure in our slip by 1318, it was time for a little wash down and updating the log. However, Rick struggled all afternoon using verious connections from supposedly available wifi, to trying hot spots from Paul's, Steve's and his own phone -- all to no avail. At 1700 he gave up on the log for the day.
Pleasant Harbor is just under half a mile long and less than a quarter mile wide, connected to Hood Canal by a narrow entrance. The charts do not show depth in the channel, and it is so narrow it almost looks like it dries at low water. On our way in the fathometer dipped to 15 feet, and with a 9.3 foot tide at the time, equated to a 5.7 foot level at low water datum. We also realized that tomorrow morning there was a -1.3 foot tide at 0800 - just when we would normally depart. 5.7 - 1.3 = 4.4 feet, exactly what Zaya draws.
We wondered if Zaya's depth gauge was accurate - or more correctly, what was it trying to measure. Our instructor thought she might have been calibrated to read water beneath the keel - which would have given us an extra 4.5 feet. So Rick pulled two big box wrenches from the tool box, tied them to a long line and dropped them over the stern. The fathometer was reading 24' at the time. As Paul held a tape measure at 3', Rick walked off the line as it was pulled back in. The conclusion was that the line measured out almost exactly to the depth of the fathometer: 24'. Over dinner we agreed that the better part of valor was to postpone our Wednesday morning departure until about 1000 when we should at least be back to zero datum or about 5.7 feet of water in the entrance channel.
Paul's freshly made lasagna with green salad was a hit for dinner, and a quarter moon against the towering firs eased us off to sleep.
Breakfast of Champions! |
Mr. Clean ... |
cleanup crew. |
Measuring air draft |
Pt. Townsend Canal |
USCG above Hood Canal |
Pt. Hannon head of Hood Canal |
HC East bridge |
HC Center Section |
HC West Bridge |
Skipper is ... |
ready to test ... |
air draft ... |
of antennas. |
Yikes! ... |
We made it! |
rick taking air pics |
HC pontoon bridge |
No wind. |
Navy buildings ... |
and base. |
Classic beauty. |
Hazel Point |
Olympic Range |
Lunch bunch |
Paul's looking ... |
for sunshine ... |
looks promising ... |
sunshine! |
Approaching Pleasant Hbr |
looks like this |
Heading in ... |
docks ... |
end ties ... |
nice schooner ... |
looking back. |
Pleasant Harbor |
Rick at computer |
Time for ... |
Paul's lasagna ... |
let it cook ... |
and it's perfect! |
All agree. |
Javelin Sundaes for dessert. |
Good night. |
Go To Log Summary
Wednesday, August 18th
No need for the early morning revile, yet we were all awake by 0700. French Toast got us started, then we waited for the minue tide at 0800 to start to fill back in. At 0930 Steve called the harbor office and inquired about the depth in the channel at low water. (Remember, it's not on the charts.) "Eight feet," came the reply. As soon as he hung up, Steve said it was time to go.
Easy to calculate: 8' of water gives us 3.5 feet under the keel - in theory. But at least the elevator was rising, so we cast off. With another boat close aboard Paul stayed on the dock with the bow line to be sure it did not blow off toward the other boat. Steve cleanly eased Zaya out of the slip - Paul could have stayed aboard - and turned down the fairway. One more pivot by STeve at the end face of the dock and Paul easily stepped aboard the stern platform. by 0930 we were headed for that shallow entrance.
Theory is one thing, but aiming a 46 foot boat that's 15' wide into a patch of water between two sand beaches that are maybe 50 feet appart is guaranteed to raise your heart rate. Slowly Steve nudged Zaya forward again the slight current of the incomming tide. Just 50 feet from the pass the fathometer read 60'. Then it dropped like a stone:40'; 20'; 16'; 9'; 8', 7.8 feet. Everyone was hlding their breath. Looking out the side door, you could see the bottom slide past. Then 8'; 9'; 15' and we were clear into Hood Canal again.
We retraced our steps past the Navy base and under the Hood Canal bridge. We rounded Foulweather Bluff and turned south into the main channel of Puget Sound that leads to Seattle. the current was now in our favor and we hit 9 - 11 knots at only 1300 RPMs on the engine - about enough to do a little over 8 knots without current.
We were tied in our slip at Shilshole Bay Marina, just north of Seattle by 1456. Jess and Paul walked a shopping trip up street while rick worked on the log. Friendly dock neighbors had some great suggstions for our coming week in the san Juan Islands. The second half of Paul's lasagana and another salad topped off the evening.
Wednesday breakfast. |
ready for tide test ... |
first, pick up Paul ... |
how wide is that? |
how deep? |
where's the water? |
7.8 feet ... |
maybe? |
the bottom? |
safe at last! |
Last Olympic snow. |
Hood Canal |
Steve's relaxed |
They look better ... |
zoomed in. |
Hood Canal Bridge |
Hood Canal Bridge ... |
stopped traffic ... |
the 55' high end ... |
note the tiny gap ... |
for 10 ' tides |
that's floating! |
a long way ... |
the gap again. |
Perfect view. |
quite a peak. |
Agressive ferry! |
Long train. |
Shilshole Marina |
Lots of masts. |
Plotting approach ... |
up close. |
Shilshole approach |
Light air. |
North entrance. |
Seawall art |
The Dragon. |
Nice schooner ... |
we passed a lot ... |
guest dock ... |
with fuel ... |
turning in ... |
in our slip ... |
docking step. |
Flags fly. |
Great neighbors ... |
ready to party ... |
says it all. |
lots of company. |
Lief Erickson! |
Rick taking ... |
Time for an ... |
Olympic sunset. |
Go To Log Summary
Thursday, August 19th
Under way at 0734 after a cereal and fruit breakfast, we headed for the Ballard Locks to enter Lake Union and Lake Washington. It was cloudy, but forecast to clear. The old railroad bridge was in it's normal up position, but started lowering as we approached. Fortunately, we could still clear under it when it was closed, which we did. The retaining wall under the bridge was also the waiting wall for the locks. We were at a -1.3 foot tide and the wall was covered with sharp, uninviting barnacles so Steve positioned us about 2 - 3 foot off the wooden wall. It was 0750 when we arrrived, then a train passed over the closed bridge. The bridge opened and the 40' sloop which was our slipmate from last night passed under the opened bridge and took up station just astern of us. Finally the lower gate on the small lock opened and out came a tug. At 840, fifty minutes after we had arrived, we were in the lock.
The sailboat and two small power boats followed us in. We were close against the upstream lock gate,with a stream of water leaking through the seam like a small waterfall. It was about a 15' rise to lake level, and at 0848 we were at last under way. The waterway between the locks and Lake Union was highly commercial and crowded with boats and vessels of all sizes. Drydocks, boatyards, and many fishing boats with arctic names were packed together. We could have sworn that many had been in the History Channel series of Alaskan fishing. Even the north shore of Lake Union was commercial.
But the south side of Lake Union had beautiful views of downtown Seattle and the Space Needle. Lots of boats of all sizes were doing thier thing, inlcuding many stand up paddle boards and kayaks. There is a 7 knot speed limit throughout. We threaded our way among them into the Montlake Cut which joins Lake Union and Lake Washington.
Emerging from the Cut into the lake was like aentering a time machine. The majestic football stadium for the University of Washington gleamed on the north shore just at the end of the Cut. Thier extensive sailing facility covered the shore front. The pontoon route 520 highway bridge bisects Lake Washington into a north and south half - both beautiful. It's also a seaplane haven, with a number of beautiful houses having seaplanes on the docks. "Starter Castles" might be a good describtion of the houses. We ducked south under the 520 bridge, and circled Mercer Island clockwise. Overnight anchoring is not allowed in Lake Washington, except in Andrews Bay, formed by the Bailey Peninsula off the western Seattle shore.
We decided to stop there for lunch, and just for practice, ran the anchor drill. Paul and Jess lower the anchor and then added the rope bridle to transfer the anchor load from the windlass to the stout bow cleats, and also provide a lower and balance lead to minimize swinging at anchor. Lunch was 4 Bean Soup with Oyster crackers. Then we prepared to raise the anchor and get under way back to the locks and Shilshole marina. As Paul used his foot on the "up" button, Jess aimed the saltwater washdown hose at the rising anchor chain to rinse off the mud. After retrieving about 100' of the 150' that was out, there was a "clunk" and the chain jumped the gypsy and started racing back out. Rick jumped up onto the bowsprit and stomped his foot on the escaping chain which brought it to a halt. It happened so fast that at first we hadn't even realized what had happened. We put the chain back over the gypsy and started up again - tis time watching the gypsy. It happened again, and another foot stomp stopped it. Rick went below into the forepeak and the anchor locker and discovered that the chain had piled up reducing the weight on the falling chain. In short, we learned that a fast anchor retrieval might be better with someone below checking the chain fall.
We powered back through Montlake Cut and Lake Union, then stopped at the Fisherman's Terminal, just after the Ballard Bridge and short of the locks. Paul and Jess went ashore and came back with another round of beautiful salmon. The down-bound passage through the locks was "only" fifty minutes. There were a dozen boats in the big lock coming in as we were directed to the samll lock where just us and another powerboat, plus 3 ruanabouts, filled it for the outbound trip.
We were back in our slip at Shilshole by 1613. Paul's Veri Veri Terikai Salmon was once again greatly praised and paired well with rice and green beans. Early to bed.
Heading for adventure ... |
Ballard Locks |
Geese greeters |
Approaching RR bridge and locks |
Train time! |
Also waiting |
Red lights |
Lock is occupied ... |
with this ... |
tug. |
Our turn |
Great dogs |
tight fit ... |
ditto astern |
Paul has the bow |
Gates closing ... |
going up ... |
almost there ... |
hurry across ... |
gates open ... |
off we go. |
Very busy waterway ... |
crazy houseboats |
Big drydock |
Many bridges |
Lake Union |
Seattle skyline ... |
Space Needle |
Refinery relic art |
Montlake Cut |
Montlake cut |
U. of Wash. Stadium |
Lake Washington |
New 520 Bridge |
all pontoons |
Seaplanes ... |
everywhere, even ... |
on your dock! |
Starter castles |
Under 520 bridge ... |
well protected ... |
good clearance. |
Massive structure ... |
and loooong. |
I90 East span |
looking back. |
What money can buy. |
I-90 west span |
Lake Union-Washington tour |
back to Cut |
Lots of sand! |
Waiting again ... |
go for small lock ... |
big lock opens. |
Cozy again ... |
just room ... |
Lines secure ... |
gates closing ... |
Free at last! |
Nice schooner. |
Paul's salmon ... |
greatly enjoyed. |
Go To Log Summary
Friday, August 20th
Cloudy today with light wind. Not good for sailing, but just fine under power. We started the day by pumping the holding tank, there were under way for Jarrell Cove by 0802. Steve thought there would be a better chance of getting into Jarrell Cove on a Friday rather than a Saturday, so we swapped The Plan's goal of Hope Island.
Going south past West Point we were off Elliot Bay and downtown Seattle. Lots of commercial shipping showing up as AIS targets on the chartplotters.
AIS is the VHF radio Automated Identification System required for boats over 65' and passenger carrying vessels. anyone with a receiver can pick up the signals and that produces an icon on the screen which, when clicked, gives the name of the vessel, it's course and speed, and most importantly, it's closest point of approach (CPA) and the time to that moment.
Looking at the chartplotter we could see an icon abeam coming out of Seattle over a mile away. However, the icon was a red color, indicating a particularly close CPA. We discovered it was the 92' Marshall Foss making over 9 knots and we would be within about 100' in about 4 minutes. Since we were both powerboats and we were to the right of the Marshall Foss, we technically had the right of way. Steve and Rick discussed options. Under the Rules Of the Road the right-of-way vessel is supposed to "stand on" meaning maintain curse and speed so the "burdened" vessel can take appropriate avoiding action. As we discussed the situation, we watched the information panel show that the Marshall Foss was slowing down, and about 10 seconds later we could see that she was altering her curse to starboard to pass astern of us. Wow, win one for the little guy. We waved as she passed astern.
We continued down the East Passage past Vashon Island, turning west at Robinson Point. Then turned south into The Narrows, generally called the Tacoma Narrows. This 1.5 mile stretch is only three quarters of a mile wide and all of the water in the southern end of Puget Sound, down to Olympia, has to flow through the Narrows. Currents can run above 5 knots here. We had a nice 2 - 3 knot current with us and even with the engines at 1300 rpm - typically about 8 knots - we were doing 11.4 over the bottom.
The original Tacoma Narrows bridge was opened in July of 1940, and was then the 3rd longest suspension bridge in the country after the golden Gate and George Washington bridges. Even during construction the road deck would sway during high winds and the workers nicknamed the bridge "Galloping Gertie." In November of the same year in 40 mile per hour winds, despite efforts to reduce the motion, the raodway started oscillating and eventually self destructed. Video of the event is something to watch. A replacement bridge was completed in 1950, the green span seen below, and the white concrete companion was completed in 2007.
The highlight of the day was stopping for lunch just off a small sandy beach near were the chart says "Tatsolo." This, Steve informed us, was Solo Point, the spot in 1964 that he, as a young army 2nd lieutenant information officer, was coordinating a Labor Day weekend exercise that brought a brigade of soldiers aboard ship on Friday, and back ashore on Sunday. This was a full scale exercise with army, navy, marines and air force involved. As Steve recalls, the air force was 5 minutes late, and one landing craft missed the beach entirely. Steve recalled three waves of three landing craft to ferry about 2000 soldiers out to the ships, then back to the beach. Steve as the "traffic cop" for the exercise said the worst part of it for himself was that when the last trucks rolled up the hill on shore, his truck was nowhere to be seen and he had to walk up.
We arrived at Jarrell Cove with a light rain. The marina is strictly for local boats, so our options were to anchor or take a Washington State mooring. We took a mooring. Steve neatly put the stern of Zaya next to the mooring so Jess could grab it with a boathook while Rick ran a line through it. Then they walked forward and secured the line at the bow. Jess found "Jarrell #6" on the mooring and a phone number if you didn't want to pay the mooring fee ashore. Since a) we didn't have the dinghy in the water, and b) it was raining, we opted for the phone option, even though there was an additional $4.50 charge, above the $15 mooring fee, for phoning in. No one could get cell coverage in the cabin, so Rick went topside to the flying bridge to give it a try. The number connected and immediately went into a hold with elevator music. The music would fade in and out, sometimes stopping for a few seconds, and then after about 6 - 7 minutes the call would simply drop. This routine went on from about 1515 to 1545. Of course, redialing meant you were back at the end of the call in line. Finally a cheerful woman answered and Rick was able to give the Jarrell #6 mooring number and the name of the boat -- phonetically spelling it about 3 times before the four letters "Z" "A" "Y" "A" were understood on the other end. She wanted the registration number - which Rick didn't have. Then the line went dead. Rick called the crew below for the registration number. Fortunately on the call-back try she answered right away. It took another four tries to get the 6 digits transmitted. Then the line dropped. By now Rick was pleading with her to give her his credit card number in case the line dropped again. The line dropped. Another call back. She got Rick's name. Dropped. Thank goodness the address was only the number and street, plus zip code and he didn't have to spell out "Mountain View, California." Dropped. Finally the credit card number. It took six calls to get the four blocks of 4 number for the card, Two more for the expiration date, and two additional for the security number. Finally she was able to confirm that it went through, and she had a confirmation number for me. Half way through, even with Jess trying to write down the fragmented bits the line dropped again. We didn't care and never called back. It was now after 5 and time for a drink.
The rain had stopped so Paul set out to grill the pork loin on Zaya's grill. After a good 20 minutes the verdict was that for some reason the grill was not getting hot, and Rick finished off the pork on the stove. Early to bed.
Departing Shilshole |
West Point light |
Jess cleans up |
Lots of ... |
fishing craft ... |
all around ... |
the entrance to ... |
The Narrows |
and bridge. |
Tacoma Narrows Bridge ... |
new addition ... |
very impressive. |
This ferry ... |
didn't make it. |
Solo Point |
Solo Pt. Beach |
Rail crossing at Solo Pt. |
Lunch |
Solo Pt to Jarrell Cove |
Tide rip at Anderson I. |
Into Jarrell Cove |
All local boats. |
Characters too |
Fuel dock |
Parks dock. |
Celebration a ... |
Pork Chop Dinner |
Go To Log Summary
Saturday, August 21st
The distance between Jarrell Cove and Hope Island is only 8 miles. After carefully consulting the charts yet again, Steve determined that the original anchoring spot behine Hope Island might be subject to a 2 to 3 knot current, and while that in itself is not an issue, if it chages direction in the middle of the night there is the chance that the anchor would not hold. So we came up with a plan to visit the state capital, Olympia, then return past Hope Island into Totten Inlet and anchor in a shallow area called Gallagher Cove.
Another cloudy morning when we started out. Departing Jarrell at 0808, we covered the 17.2 miles to Budd Inlet and Olympia Harbor in just over 2 hours and were tied to Percival Landing's E Dock in sight of the capitol building. E dock is both available for overnight docking for a fee, but also free for stays up to four hours. Paul, Rick & Jess set out to walk the half mile waterfront trail past parks, restaurants and a farmers market. Paul particularly liked the farmers market and indulged in some donut peaches, cucumbers, and dark cherries. On the way back to the boat, we stopped at the Olympic Seafood Company market and picked up chowder for lunch. After dropping the goodies back abord, Paul and Rick walked off the dock and up the street to a market and restocked Zaya's larder.
The sun had come out by the time we finished lunch and we were back under way for Gallagher Cove at 1350. There is a tiny marina at the head of Budd Inlet named "Boston Harbor." With Javelin's east coast crew more than a little familiar with the real Boston Harbor, this tiny spot was worth a picture.
It was only 12 miles back past Hope Island and we again had current with us. We were doing 9.9 knots over the bottom as we rounded Steamboat Island across from Hope, and turned into Totten Inlet. We found muscle pens near our target anchorage, but water depth was good and we anchored with no trouble.
With two of Paul's wonderful salmon dinners added to the meal plan, we had an option of chicken curry or spaghetti and meatballs for dinner. Spag & Balls won out.
Sat. breakfast dishes |
Calm departure |
Coiling mooring line |
Graham Pt. bridge |
Peale Passage |
Boston Harbor! |
... and light |
Approaching ... |
Olympia ... |
Capitol building. |
Harbor channel |
Big ship ... |
lots of logs. |
Old ferry |
Ready for docking |
E Dock at ... |
Percival Landing |
Tied up ... |
and looking good. |
Harbor area ... |
lots to see. |
State Capital. |
Harbor master ... |
and sculptures |
Farmers market ... |
Paul's after peaches ... |
and cherries. |
Low tide equals ... |
steep ramps! |
Olympia Seafood ... |
Paul's looking ... |
Rick & Paul get ... |
chowder lunch. |
Nap time |
Heading out ... |
nav station ... |
Boston Hbr again |
Classic |
Squaxin Pass 10.5 kn over bottom |
Steamboat I. |
Anchor detail ... |
Gallagher Cove. |
Oyster seeding beds. |
getting late ... |
Sunset ... |
Good night. |
Go To Log Summary
Sunday, August 22nd
We had now completed our exploration of the southern end of Puget Sound and it was time to start working back north. Today's target was Gig Harbor, just above The Narrows. Having had the experience of the chain jumping the gypsy back in Lake Washington, Rick stood watch on the chain locker below as Paul and Jess brought the anchor up. As they paused to wash mud off the rising chain, Rick would distribute the chain in the locker to make sure it was not piling up. There were no more glitches and we were under way at 0817.
Our current luck held and we were washed back through Squaxin, Dana, Drayton, and Blach Passages and on into The Narrows where we topped out at 12.2 knots at only 1000 rpm. Our slip in Gig Harbor was not available until 1300 and, with that great current push, it was only 1114 as we passed the Gig Harbor entrance. We headed east for Quartermaster Harbor to have lunch.
We anchored in 13 feet of water near the western shore of the bay and enjoyed tuna salad sandwiches. Then back under way at 1250, we were docked in Gig Harbor by 1336. After washing down the salt spray from the day's trip, Paul & Jess walked the town to check out the recommended Tides Tavern for dinner. Steve and Rick stayed aboard, Rick working on the log. Paul and Jess returned with a glowing report on the Tides, but confirmed that if we didn't go early, there was likely to be a long wait. They also managed to grab ice cream cones that Gig Harbor is noted for.
With a target of 5 pm at the Tides, we departed the boat at 4:45 and arrived to find that we could have indoor seating immediately. Rick and Jess had Fish & Chips, Paul a Cheeseburger, and Steve a Ruben. All were delicious. Indeed, shortly after we had arrived the outdoor seating was full and a waitng line had formed when we departed at 6.
Back aboard, it was time to finish up the log and relax. There was a joyous band along the waterfront, with lots of light and happy sounds. However, the same beat for over an hour was getting a little much, so we turned in not long after 9:00 pm.
Sunday Track |
Totten Inlet shore |
Chain pile |
Steve check's Henri |
Steamboat I. ahead |
Tide rip at Steamboat |
Brisco Point |
Stairway to heaven? |
Johnson Point |
State Pennitentairy |
Lunch Stop |
Gig Hbr approach ... |
what harbor? |
there it is ... |
narrow entrance. |
Nice homes. |
Classic |
Our slip at ... |
Arabella's Landing |
All secure with ... |
great crew. |
Loud band. |
Gig Harbor |
Go To Log Summary
Monday, August 23rd
Under way from Gig Harbor by 0744, we ran north up Colvos Passage between the mainland and Vashon Islnad. the force was with us and we did an easy 9.6 knots over the bottom at only 1200 rpm.
Turning slightly west, we left blke Island to starboard and there dodged three anchored container ships waiting for dock space in Seattle. A 4th ship was on the north side of Blake. This area is both out of the way of the traffic going up and down Puget sound, but it is also one of the few places that the water is both deep enough and shallow enough for container ship to anchor. That equates to deeper than, say 60 feet (10 fathoms), but shallower than 120' (20 fathoms.)
As we passed Orchard Point the current turned against as with about 3.4 knots going the wrong way. Steve raised the throttles to 1600 as we Rounded White Point, yet our speed over the bottom was just 5.7 knots. As soon as we were north of White Point the current died away quickly and we ran up Port Orchard to Keyport with no problems.
Jess keeps his boat in Keyport, and Paul grew up in Keyport. BUT, that is Keyport, New Jersey, not Keyport, Washington. So in addition to the fun considence, Paul read in the Waggoner guide that there is a Naval Undersea Museum in Keyport, WA. Wtih great good luck, the Keyport guest dock face was free and just perfect for Steve to tuck Zaya neatly alongside - winding up just 3 feet from the bowsprit sticking out from a boat on the side tie.
Our technique has been perfected now over several days. Rick positions either the loop on the spring line over the hook at the end of the boathook, and with a half twist locks it on without taking up space inside the loop. If the cleats are larger than the loop in the line, it is pulled through to form a lasso. In either case, the objective is to drop the loop over the cleat without having to get off the boat. Depending on the specific configuration the line becomes a forward or aft spring. As soon as it is on the cleat, the on-board end is snugged around a cleat and Steve can pull against it to swing either the bow or stern gently parallel to the dock. Then the crew steps off easily without have to jump, and make fast the bow and stern lines.
We walked up to the Navy Undersea Museum and enjoyed a full hour and a half exploration. From the basics of submaries and torpedoes to the exploration of the sea, underwater rescue, and even using dolphins and sea lions to locate and tag old mines, it was time well spent. The pictures below give you a good feel for it.
We walked the 2 blocks back to the famous Keyport Mercantile and Deli, even touted in Waggoner, and recommended by the guide at the museum. We ordered their famous sandwiches and polished them off on the deck. After posing before their signature sign, Paul and Jess posed at the dock sign saying, "Welcome to Keyport."
Log time and shopping were completed in time for additude adjustment hour, made all the more enjoyable by the sensory aroma of Paul's home make chili marrying on the stove. the church played a clarion melody that drifted across the harbor, much more enjoyable that last night's Gig Harbor band.
The shopping trips has been only party successful and in addition Steve noted that we had not yet stopped at the famous Sluy's Bakery. So we fell asleep with visions of donuts dancing in our heads.
Heading out ... |
Gig Hbr light. |
Vashon I. ferry |
Seattle waits for ... |
lot and lots ... |
of containers. |
Natural Resources? |
Siesta time |
Orchard Point ... |
nice houses. |
Approaching Keyport |
Navy pier |
At Keyport dock |
Welcome to Keyport |
Naval Undersea Museum |
Explaining the parts ... |
of a submarine. |
Heading inside |
Parts of a sub |
Trident missle payload |
Torpedoes |
Periscopes ... |
enemy sighted! |
Captain Steve |
Submersibles. |
Back to Keyport ... |
After lunch ... |
Keyport residents! |
Keyport patrol |
Poulsbo Three marinas |
Sleepy sentries. |
Happy dogs |
Poulsbo |
Play and Pray |
Brass Kraken |
1st Luthern |
Party time. |
Go To Log Summary
Tuesday, August 24th
The crew marched down the dock at 0634. The very attractive town of Poulsbo was quiet, except for the brightly lit Sluy's Bakery. The mural on their wall depicted an simpler time and contrasted with a large screen TV monitor showing the bakers hard at work in the kitchen. The range of baked goods was impressive and the toughest part was making decisions. But we prevailed and returned to Zaya by 0649 for a suggary breakfast. Rick remarked that he usually preferred raised to cake donuts, but Sluy's cake donuts were as light and soft and their raised - both were outstanding.
We were under way for Oak Harbor by 0716. This was the longest planned leg of the cruise at 48 nautical miles. However given our early breakfast walk and departure and a favorable early current, we passed our waypoints easily. We hit 11.3 knots going through Agate Pass, and 10.0 knots when we cleared Poit Jefferson into the main shipping channel. It was still with us as we passed Possession Point into Possession Sound.
We passed Sandy Point at 1054 and, of course, snapped a picture for the log. Rick's wife Sandy has always enjoyed light houses during cruises, and a point with her name was frosting on the cake.
The remainder of Paul's delicious chili, almost better for maturing overnight, made for a great lunch under way.
We arrived at the Oak Harbor channel at 1315 and went straight to the fuel dock. There we put 190 gallons of diesel in the tanks, pumped out the holding tank, and filled the water tanks. We were secure at our slip at 1436.
Paul tried changing the propane tanks on the grill to see if they would run hotter, but, even with help from Jess they were not able to switch the tanks. However, with much patience, Paul grilled the chicken to perfection. Rick made up sauce of peanut butter, ketchup, soy and worchestershire, that drew skeptics until it was tasted, then all of it ws consumed along with the mixed veg.
The dinner conversation was whether to stick with our original Plan route for Wednesday and go to Lopez Sound via Deception Pass, or go the long way up through the Swinomish Waterway past La Conner. Steve was a bit concerned about the longer open water passage between Deception Pass and Lopez Pass vs. the Gumes Channel to Thatcher Pass route farther north. Besides, La Conner is one of the Puget Sound noted destinations. Further, the ebb curretn through Deception Pass would be over 6 knots for our usual morning start and we would have to delay getting under way until about 1000 to have only 3 knots of current at Deception. However, the morning high tide made it easier to run the very shallow La conner route, plus the current would be running with us the whole way.
We finished off the evening watching a chapter of the rebuilding of the 1910 cutter Tally Ho on YouTube using Rick's phone hotspot as our internet connection.
0633 Tuesday |
Going ashore ... |
setting moon ... |
quiet morning. |
Sluy's Bakery ... |
once like this ... |
their motto ... |
busy making ... |
great goodies ... |
decisions, decisions ... |
Happy crew! |
Back to the boat ... |
not this one ... |
this one! |
Yummy. |
Passing Keyport |
Olympic mountains |
Agate Pass bridge |
Fast ferry ... |
slow ferry. |
Olympics again. |
Sandy Point |
Mt. Baker in haze |
Oak Harbor outer mark ... |
channel ahead |
Oak Harbor approach |
Oak Hbr Marina ... |
marina entrance ... |
fuel dock ... |
at our dock. |
O.H. slips ... |
outer dock wall. |
Dinner dishwashing |
making coffee |
Here come ... |
returning Optis. |
Tally Ho set up |
Go To Log Summary
Wednesday, August 25th
It was 0634 when we departed the dock at Oak Harbor. Breakfast would have to be under way. Steve wanted to catch the high tide and make the La conner run. It was another calm, clear morning and we easily rounded the side of Whidby Island into Skagit Bay.
The southern channel into La Conner runs just under 2 miles east from deep water to a 90 degree turn to the north through a rock formation dubbed Hole In The Wall. Though marked with channel markers,it is swpet across by the ebb and flood currents and tends to silt up every 4 -6 years. Running through on an 8' high tide greatly reduces the chance of going aground. The channel is guided by a back range in Dugualla Bay. The rage markers are just over a half mile apart, so are highly sensitive to getting out of line, and, given their bright orange with a white stripe facing the morning sun, were easy to read. Rick stood outside the starboard side door with Steve steering at the helm just inside the door. Rick sighted back over the stern to tell Steve to go left or right to keep the two marks in line, while Steve looked ahead to steer and watch channel markers. We arrived at Hole In The Wall at 0824 and turned north.
Even with Zaya's engines at idle, we were making 7 knots over the bottom - and making no wake - as we passed the town of La Conner. The town is mostly on the east side of the Swinomish Channel and the Swinomish Indian Reservation is on the west side. the town stretches for about a mile near the southern end of the 10 mile long channel from Skagit Bay in the south, to Padilla Bay / Anacortes in the north. We cleared the northern channel at about 0920.
Keeping with the new Plan, we headed west through the Gumes Channel and aimed for Thatcher Pass to enter the San Juan Islands. The route would then turn south through Lopez Sound to Hunter Bay. We were running at 11 knots over the bottom at ony 1200 rpm leavng Gumes Channel to cross Rosario Strait to Thatcher pass. As we started across the weather remined relatively light with SSW winds around 8 - 9 knots. Rosario Strait was also ebbing south, directly across our course line. A more direct route to Hunter Bay would be to turn southwest and enter through the original target, Lopez Pass. We made the chnge at 1002 doing 10.0 knots over the bottom, still at 1200 rpm. Thirty-seven minutes later we entered Lopez Pass, and, after a little exploration, were anchored in Hunter Bay at 1109.
While Steve, Paul and Jess launched the dinghy, Rick made up ham sandwiches for lunch. Then Paul & Jess toured the area in the dinghy while Rick worked on the log and Steve ran the generator to chill the fridge and keep the icemaker going. When they returned, Rick and Steve did a quick ride as well.
During attitude adjust hour, around 1800, Rick pointed out a trawler that appeared to have moved significantly from forward to port to almost abeam to port. At first we wondered if the wind had changed and it was just an apparent angle change. But a few minutes later it became clear that the trawler was slow drifting downwind out of Hunter Bay. No one was visible on board. Paul and Jess put on life jackets and jumped in the dinghy. The trawler was almost 100 yards astern when they pulled alongside and knocked on the hull. A woman came out Paul told her we thought they were dragging. She realized that she wasn't were she had been and thanked Paul for letting them know -- her husband was asleep below. As Paul and Jess returned to Zaya, they motored around to about75 yeards on our starboard side and dropped anchor - where they stayed all night. We speculated that the rising 10' tide may have finally lifted their anchor off the ground, causing them to drift with the wind.
Departing Oak Harbor |
Dugualla Range ... |
into La Conner |
Passing 8 ... |
astern. |
Rick calls range ... |
way back there. |
Approaching ... |
Hole In the Wall |
Rainbow Bridge |
La Conner |
La Conner |
Old tug |
Swinomish Shellfish Co. ... |
lots of pots! |
Indian reservation. |
Approaching highway ... |
and railway bridges. |
Indian casino |
Belle Rock |
Bird Rocks |
Approaching ... |
Lopez Pass |
Lopez Pass |
Juan de Fuca fog |
Paul bails dinghy |
At anchor Hunter Bay |
Hunter Bay |
Dinghy smiles Jess and Paul |
Speed demons Steve and Rick |
Wednesday track |
Lots of ... |
trawlers around. |
Stern neighbors |
The trawler dragged ... |
Paul & Jess ... |
"you're dragging" ... |
Thanks! |
Anchor lights |
Go To Log Summary
Thursday, August 26th
In no particular hurry, we enjoyed a French Toast breakfast. It was very cloudy and dark, with rain showers forecast as we departed Hunter Bay at 0848. Steaming north up Lopez Sound we passed Trump Island, then Thatcher Pass. Then on past Swifts and Shoal Bays. Turning west for Harney Channel between Shaw Island to the south and Orcas Island to the north, we slipped through narrow Pole Pass to reach Deer Harbor Marina.
It was only a 15 minute stop at the fuel dock to pump the holding tank, top off the water tanks, drop off garbage and pick up a few bottles of wine. Then on to Reid Harbor on Stuart Island. Though we easily counted 33 boats, the harbor is so large we were 100 yards from any other boat - though maybe only 25 from shore.
It rained lightly as we came in and dropped the anchor, then rained steadily during lunch before stopping by 1400. Lunch was soup and sandwich - clam chowder with toasted English muffins, PB and jam. Few pictures today, not much to report in the log, and just barely able to get out text messages - no reliable internet connections either.
Patience was a virtue. The rain stopped and the crew launched the dinghy to go exploring. Rick stayed aboard to work on the log and stand by the ship's radio on VHF 79. Steve, Paul and Jess motored to the head of the harbor and explored the posted signs and trails to hike. It's a 3 mile one-way walk out to Turn Point where big ship traffic shifts from Haro Strait to Boundary Passage inbound from the Straits of Juan de Fuca to Vancouver on the Strait of Georgia. A centry old school is also along the route.
The crew regrouped,bringing Steve back to the boat before Paul and Jess headed out for at least a bit of hiking. The shortest hike is up over the ridge down the middle of Stuart Island that separates Reid Harbor from Prevost Harbor. As the picture show, they got far enough to see Prevost before returning. A short show passed while they wre away, but they had shelter. shortly after getting back on board a patch of sun broke through the clouds and lit a perfect rainbow that spanned Reid Harbor and hit the ground on both ends.
We kidded Steve if that was his next boat when the 108' Kaori cruised in and dropped her hook near the harbor entrance. Rick's chicken curry passed for dinner, and, yet again, we headed for our bunks shortly after 2100.
Pole Pass |
Pole Pass |
Deer Hbr Marina |
Reid Hbr foreground Saltspring I. Canada left high background |
Reid entrance ... |
rainy Reid Harbor. |
Reid Harbor |
Rain has stopped ... |
launch the dinghy ... |
explorers depart ... |
take picture of Zaya. |
Lateral mooring system ... |
tie here |
follow the rules. |
Approaching the ... |
manual pumpout station. |
We're ... |
here. |
Paul leads the way ... |
where to go? |
Choices. |
Starting out ... |
Steve guards fort |
Let's regroup. |
Classic |
On the trail again ... |
Prevost Hbr side |
Prevost anchorage |
Our rainbow |
Clearing up |
Rick's chicken curry |
108' Kaori |
Sunset |
firefly anchor lights. |
Go To Log Summary
Friday, August 27th
Another cloudy but calm moring. the great debate was oatmeal or Cheerios with fruit for breakfast. "No trouble," says Steve. "You can have them both." As so some did. There was, however, a caution, that the hot water had to go into the oatmeal and it properly stirred before either the Cheerios or the fruit was added. That settled, we were under way from Reid Harbor at exactly 0800.
Steve had noted a small gunkhole called Active Cove on Pato Island. Patos is a small island at the northern-most point in the San Juan Islands and is right next to Canadian waters. In fact, as we made our way along the 11 mile Bounday Pass, our route crossed just to the north of the "DB" buoy which is where the border turns straight north for 3.8 miles. We were technically in Canadian waters for about a half mile, or about 4 minutes. Active Cove is tiny and has two State of Washington moorings on the centerline of the narrow cove. One boat was on the other one and we decided to that the one closer to the mouth of the Cove. the mouth of the cove faces northi, directly up the wide open Strait of Georgia. Within about 5 minutes we realized that the small swells rolling down the Strait were causing a steady rocking - maybe not too bad in a sailboat, but quite noticable on a powerboat. We declared victory and cast off for Sucia Island.
Ou first target was Shallow Bay on the north side of sucia. Small, cozy and again open to the north. We idled in, turned around and idled out to continue a "tour" of Sucia. Waggoner's Guide describes Sucia's Echo Bay as delightful and able to accomodate "500 boats" on a busy summer weekend. Right they are. Echo Bay is not only large, but is wide, deep in the middle and completely open to any southeast winds. We were hoping for a bit more isolation, so we tried the South Finger channel. Just one boat was anchored there and it was beautiful with steep heavily wooded shores. A small limestone cove looked promising, but the 40 foot depth would require at least 120' of anchor chain and the passage was barely that wide in total. So we rounded the south end of the island, passing Snoring Cove with 1 boat already in it, into Fossill Bay. More crowded that we might have liked, but very clean with two long rows of moorings between beautiful, rocky, wooded shores.
We picked up the 2nd mooring in, giving us a feeling of being away from the other boats stretched back into the bay. While Rick started making lunch, we launched the dinghy and Paul & Jess went ashore to register and pay our $15 mooring fee. After our 4 Bean Soup lunch, Pual and Jess recharged their personal batteries with a quick nap then headed ashore around 1400 to explore Sucia.
They found a small welcome pavillion that was donated to the park system by a group of yacht clubs and the public. The trails were great for hiking, and camping, the beaches were good for browsing.
We enjoyed libations on the flying bridge before finishing off a shrimp, Brie, apple and cracker dinner.
Friday morning |
Propane barge |
Looking southwest |
Turn Pt. face ... |
Turn Pt. Light |
Turn Pt. Buildings |
DB Buoy |
Island Tour |
Patos Island |
Patos Island ... |
light ... |
up close. |
Says it all |
Active cove |
Brain trust checks |
Approaching Shallow Bay |
cozy ... |
departing Shallow Bay. |
Ewing Islad cut |
Echo Bay - port |
Echo Bay starboard |
Linear mooring system |
Too deep + narrow |
Leaving South Finger |
Snoring Bay |
Fossill Bay ... |
on our mooring ... |
looking astern |
Registration crew Paul & Jess |
Fossill Bay Sucia |
Fossill Bay dock ... |
head of bay ... |
campers paradise. |
Checking out Fox Bay |
Driftwood teeter |
Mercer Island seaplane ... |
going ... |
gone! |
Ready for a hike |
me too! |
Cliff hike |
Arriving at ... |
Welcome pavillion ... |
Island welcome ... |
and details ... |
dedication plaque ... |
make a reservation ... |
Looking back to ... |
Zaya. |
Great evening |
looks like Maine |
Evening ... |
libations. |
Shrimp / brie dinner. |
Sunset |
Go To Log Summary
Saturday, August 28th
During our Saturday morning egg with a touch of cheese, we thought we heard the water pump running with nothing turned on. When Jess was checking the engine room, he found a small trickle of water under the port engine. We turned off the water system switch the pump stopped, but started up when we turned it back on. An initial serach determined that there was water flowing under the pump for the aft head which ws located under the sink cabinet. But, we couldn't determine where the water was coming from.
Since there was no problem whn the water system was off, we just turned off the switch and got under way. Steve wanted to have a look at double Island in West Sound of Orcas Island. It was perfectly glassy as we departed Sucia and aimed for President channel on the west side of Orcas. Instead of taking Pole Pass back the way we had gone to Deer Harbor, we left Bird Rock to port and went around the bottom of Crane Island and up into West Sound.
We explored the southern cove behind Alegria Island, then worked around to the Double Island side. Severl boats were anchored - all in the best spots. We noted a place we could anchor, but then went on to explore West Sound Marina at the northeast corner of the Sound. A very nice, full service marina with many attractive boats plus character boats like tugs and a research ketch that was a character itself.
Since it wasn't yet 1100, we steered for Blind Bay on the top of shaw Island. Another very large harbor with dozens of boats, but quite well spaced out. We found a nice spot in the southwest corner and dropped the hook for lunch at 1122. The dinghy was launched for some exploration after lunch of tuna salad.
During lunch we discussed the water system situation. Steve checked in with Northwest Explorations and explained ur situation. We could continue on, and just live with the leak when the system was turned on and let the bilge pump handle the small flow, and simply replenish water more frequently. We even calculated that running the washing machine for an hour might waste, say, 7 gallons, but with 300 on board it was probably manageable.
The bigger concern was what happened if the leak got larger. And more fundamentally, we still didn't know what was actually leaking. Paul was able to remove the shelf to give us better access to the pump area. With Rick watching inside, Steve turned the water system on and almost immediately a tiny stream of water shot out of a pinhole on the back side of the main supply hose to the head pump. It hit the head pump, making it look like the pump was working.
Having discovered the source, no the trick was to fix it. There were no hose clamps or other obvious repair materials aboard Zaya. All we had was some duct tape. One major problem was that every time the hose was moved, little drops of water leaked out. We dried the hose as best we could. Then Steve and Jess cut strips of duct tape and handed them to Paul, who was also holding a flashlight on the area, who dangled it inside for Rick to apply. May 15 pieces later, we crossed our fingers and flipped on the water pump. It wasn't more than 3 seconds before water was leaking out.
We called the West Sound marina to ask if they had hose barbs and hose clamps. The good news was that they did; the bad news was that the closed at 1500, and it was 1407. We were under way at 1412. As soon as we covered the 1 mile from our Blind Bay anchorage, across Harney Channel to the tip of West Sound, Steve stopped Zaya and Paul and Rick climbed into the dinghy and zoomed up the Sound. We arrived at West Sound Marina about 1435 and by 1451 we had supplies in hand. We boarded the dinghy and puttered out to Zaya who had now arrived off the Marina. We were back at our Blind Bay anchorage at 1535.
On the way back Rick worked to get the duct tape off. Though not adheared to the hose well enough to stop water flow, the 15 layers were tight to each other and a bear to remove. Once more turning on the water to exactly locate the leak, Rick sliced through the hose at that point. Now all we needed to do was push the hose barb into each end and secure with hose clamps. Alas, the hose barb refused to go into the tough hose. For a brief moment Rick realized that now there was no water for the boat - no heads working, much less cooking water.
The ends of the barb were trimmed slightly, then Rick boiled water in a small pan and held the end of the hose in the water for a minute to soften it up. Success - at least on the lower end which was long enough to get fully into the water. The upper end was short and only the very end could be submerged in the hot water. It was enough to get it started, but not likely enough to be secure. We found a hair dryer and with another 5 minutes of heating and pushing both end of the hose were on the barb and the hose clamps secure. We flipped the switch, and we had water and no leak.
Paul and Jess had run to the Shaw Island General Store at the head of the Bay and, along withgeneral goodies, brought back Mint chocolate Chip Ice Cream. Perfect with a spahghetti and meatball dinner.
Saturday morning |
Flat calm |
Alegria house |
Alegria Cove |
Double Island cove... |
classic. |
West Sound ... |
Lady Amber ... |
Pelican ... |
nice tugs ... |
red restaurant. |
Down West Sound |
Blind Bay approach |
Ferry & General Store |
Shaw I. General Store ... |
and Post Office ... |
looks good ... |
well stocked ... |
Paul shops ... |
checks out ... |
heading for Zaya ... |
returning groceries ... |
Steve's waiting. |
Leak is here ... |
Paul hold flashlight ... |
Rick's inside ... |
drying it out ... |
cutting tape ... |
applying tape ... |
all in ... |
tape applied. |
The real fix ... |
up close. |
Saturday 8-28 |
West Sound - Blind Bay |
Blind Bay ... |
a very ... |
nice ... |
afternoon. |
Go To Log Summary
Sunday, August 29th
Simply yogurt with fresh mellon that Paul had goeen at the General Store. It was another flat calm, clear morning. We quietly raised the anchor at 0754 (after breakfast, of course) and idled across the bay to get a closer look at a Chesapeake Bay Bugeye Ketch.
Officially, our dock at Friday Harbor wouldn't be available until 1300, so we started out on a Sunday tour of the neighborhood. One spot on the south side of Shaw Island was Indian Cove, another large open area. And, like most of the others, the anchoring areas were close to shore since the center was too deep to anchor easily. Then on to North Bay on the east side of San Juan Island. Even bigger and fully open to southerly winds. We could even see the Juan de Fuca fog down through San Juan Channel, about 4 miles away. There was a very modern looking glass-fronted house overlooking the San Juan channel, but don't do anything you wouldn't want your neighbors to see.
Turning north up san Juan channel, we passed Friday Harbor and poked into Parks Bay. This one nice and tight with a modest number of boats. Then through the Wasp Islands before aiming for Friday Harbor.
We arrived at Friday Harbor at 1105 and went right to the pumpout dock to pump out the holding tank. Then on to our dock space where we filled the water tanks. We are directly across a ten foot dock from the Friday Harobr seaplane terminal. It is nothing more than a series of low floats. It wasn't long before we saw a seaplane come alongside and unload a bunch of passengers. Not long after, another, larger one, picked up passengers. So it continued into the afternon. At least 7 had come and gone by 1400.
Jess and Paul again were the foraging team and got us more fresh salmon for tonight's dinner. Then Captain Steve ordered the dinghy launched and the extensive harbor was checked out while Rick caught up on log writing. They chased the Brig Lady Washington, and explored the boats on moorings.
The Sunday evening rush was on. A near continuous stream of seaplanes arrived to take folks home for Monday morning work. When talking with one family who was dropping their daughters off to fly to Seattle, the daughter remarked she would work remotely, but the cell/internet service was just not good or reliable enough to depend on. The father commented that the relatively good service we found in Blind Bay was because Bill Gates had a home there and wanted good reception.
Once again Paul prepared his marinated salmon to perfection and with mixed veg, we finished off another fine dinner.
Sleepy Sunday |
Bugeye ketch |
Feathered lifelines! |
Indian Cove |
Glass house ... |
look inside. |
Danger Rocks |
Dinner I., North Bay |
Thick kelp |
Entering ... |
Parks Bay ... |
quiet place. |
Wasp Islands ... |
i. to r.: Cliff, Nob, Yellow, McConnell |
Nob Island detail |
Friday Harbor |
Friday Harbor ... |
kayak crew ... |
entrance ... |
ferry leaving ... |
pump out dock ... |
Lady Washington ... |
want one? |
Fuel dock ... |
Zaya. |
Sunday tour |
Seaplane unloading ... |
Seaplane loading. |
Zaya crew Lady Washington |
Arr from Kodiak, AK |
Sunday night seaplanes |
ferry too ... |
dinghy libations. |
Go To Log Summary
Monday, August 30th
Cool, cloudy, and windy started the day off. With the end of the cruise just a few days ahead, it was time to think about consuming our provisions efficiently. So breakfast was cereal, plus English muffins with the remainder of Paul's mellon, and the usual raisins, cranberries, jam and peanut butter.
The big ferry left at 0800, and the next was at the dock by 0822. A cruise ship, looking like a small ferry, arrived and ferried huddled up passangers ashore in a packed launch. The seaplane parade started by 0900 and at least 4 carried Monday morning warriors away from Friday Harbor.
Our original plan was to perhaps go out San Juan Channel and circle south and west around to Roche Harbor for the evening. But that is the north edge of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the south end of Haro Strait. With 15 knots of breeze and 20 knot gusts that would be lumpy at best and very uncomfortable with beam seas on a powerboat. So we simply sat tight at the dock trying to keep warm.
Under way at 1009 it was a lumpy transition into San Juan channel with wind again current, even though we were going 9.9 knots. Once headed west is was a nice ride. One sailboat was close hauled headed east and might have been more comfortable (and gone faster) if they had reefed instead on having thier rail iin the water and the windward bottom paint drying out. Towboat US was earning their keep towing a large powerboat east as well.
As we approached Davison Head the sky cleared and we had nice sunshine, though still cool with 15 - 20 knots of wind on the beam. We rounded Davison Head and turned into Roche Harbor at 1127. We passed a few dozen boats anchored out and got our slip assignment on VHF 78 from Roche Harbor Marina: #28 on the old dock. Safely secure by 1150, we began exploring this fun port. The small white church at the head of the harbor chimed a gentle welcome at noon. An initial walk up the dock identified the Hotel de Haro, Madrona Bar & Grill, Lime Kiln Cafe, and the Roche Harbor Lime & Cement Company, the original purpose for the town. The scouting party returned with a suprise for the cook.
After a 4-Bean Soup lunch and the donut suprise dessert (and little log work and some siesta time)the crew embarked on a more detailed exploration. As in Friday Harbor there is a fish marked right on the docks, salmon being the main choice. Significan sections of the original lime kilns dating to 1881 remain as they were. Also preserved were two of the large diesel power plants that supplied power for the kilns.
We picked up maps at the Hotel de Haro and started up the steep road from the shore. Beautiful houses lined the grassy median and the view back over the harbor was excellent. Once we reached Roche Harbor Road at the top of the hill we fully understood why the original design was to mine the rough limestone from these 250' high cliffs and let gravity help get it down to the kilns at waters edge. Paul & Rick headed on for the Sculpture Garden and the McMillin Mausoleum, and Steve and Jess headed back to Zaya.
We viewed the Sculpture Garden from the road, but got pictures that give a good feel for this very creative and whimsical place. Next up was the Roche Harbor airstrip - essentially a paved road the undulated over ently rolling hills for about half a mile. We even watched two small planes taxi downwind from the road end, then turn and take off over our heads.
At the edge of the airstrip was a sign for Mausoleum Parking, and then a neat sign and small arch with signs for the Mausoleum. Rick and Paul started up the dirt trail and were almost immediately among widely spaced grave plots, many currounded by white iron or wood fences. One headstone dated to 1891, another for a woman who had died in child birth, and a new one dated 2010. But this was yet another upward climb, and if it weren't for occasional little green arrow "Mausoleum" signs we had little confidence we were going in the right direction. Comng down a short hill we encountered a gravel roadway and two women heading left. We asked if they were coming from the Mausoleum and they said they were and it was worth the "short walk" to the right. Ideed it was. John McMillin's tribute to family, the Methodist Church and the Masons, stand majestically amond the trees as it was when completed in 1936. The stone talbe at its center represented the family gathering and ashes of his immediate family members are in the vaults under the chairs around the table. Their individual activities also inscribed on the backs of the chairs.
The original factory town was was sold to the Tarte family in 1956 and they began the conversion of Roche Harbor into a first class resort complex. Quite successful considering they has slips for 250 boats, the hotel and its cabins, a seaplane dock, and one of the busiest US Customs entry ports on the west coast.
Rick and Paul returned to Zaya at 1700 and after libations on the fly bridge overlooking the harbor, we dined at the Madrona Bar & Grill. Rick and Jess going for the Fish & Chips, Paul for the Paradise Burger, and Steve option for the Shrimp Salad. All in all, a great day at Roche Harbor.
This one ... |
is smoking! |
Towboat US earning $$$ |
Davison Head homes |
Roche approach ... |
busy place ... |
Roche Harbor |
View from Zaya ... |
looking good ... |
mighty crew! |
Harbor complex ... |
original purpose ... |
Lime Kilns ... |
History |
Quarrymans building |
beautiful mansion ... |
great little church ... |
Lime Kiln Cafe ... |
Madrona Bar & Grill |
Hotel de Haro ... |
history ... |
Cafe deck ... |
Do come back. |
Roche Harbor Fleet |
Generator Plants ... |
3 cylinders ... |
control panel ... |
old kilns ... |
Roche Resort homes ... |
looking back ... |
Schulpture Park ... |
creative field ... |
hummm... |
wishbone? |
two for one. |
Roche Hbr airstrip ... |
taking off. |
Mausoleum sign ... |
1891 grave ... |
2010 grave. |
Mausoleum ... |
sign ... |
stunning ... |
family table ... |
another relic .... |
family story ... |
looking out ... |
more of cemetary. |
old red schoolhouse. |
Church ... |
sign ... |
inside ... |
nice windows. |
That's ... |
Zaya! |
Roche Harbor flag ... |
Washington State ... |
Canada flag ... |
Great Britian flag ... |
US flag ... |
good night. |
Go To Log Summary
Tuesday, August 31st
Our adventures today take us through another 3 of the "11 Frequently Hit Rocks & Reefs in the San Juans" on the laminated card provided by Northwest Explorations. This brings us to a total of 8 of the 11 that we have safely navigated: Leo Rocks; Blind Bay Reef; Shirttail Reef; Yellow Islands Reef; Danger Reef; Stuart Islands Reef; and today, South Henry Rock and Battleship Island Reef. Plus, from an article of "Places You Don't Want To Go," Pole Pass, and today's Mosquito Pass.
As busy, bustling, and commercial as Friday and Roche Harbors are, today's Westcott and Garrison Bays are much closer to serene cruising grounds, if a bit "crowded" by Maine cruising standards. Mosquito Pass begins on the south side of the great Roche Harbor. Its claim to fame derives from not having detailed navigation marks along the whole route. Thus if you try a straight line between two buoys that mark shallow water, you will actually run into more shallow water along the route. You need to steer a "banana" curved course between them to stay safe. If you have and know how to use GPS and a chartplotter, the course is quite clear and easily followed with due diligence.
After a leisurely breakfast, we waited for the "Phecal Phreak" to come by and pump out our holding tank. Their motto is, "We take crap from anybody." That done, we were under way at 0920. Slowly and carefully we negotiated the marks into Mosquito Pass, made the banana curve, and turned hard to port at Bell Point and entered Westcott Bay. We toured the large anchorage, taking a picture of the Westcott Shellfish Company dock. Unfortunately, they are closed on Tuesdays, so we couldn't supplement the larder with goodies.
Our original target for the day was Garrison Bay, just south of Westcott. We cruised over and anchored in open space among the fleet of anchored boats. We launched the dinghy and Paul, Jess and Rick set off to explore English Camp. English Camp was the site of an English garrison encampment from 1860 to 1872. But at the beginning, in 1859, an American, from American Camp at the south end of San Juan Island, shot an English pig. Full fledged hostilities were avoided by arbitration and a "Pig War" was avoided. It was noted by Americans that the English Camp was much better provisioned and supported by its government than the American Camp. Today at the site there are restored buildings for the Storehouse, Blockhouse, Dispensary, and Officer's Quarters. A movie and docents are available, but not on Tuesdays.
After a ham sandwich lunch, we hauled anchor under light rain sprinkles and headed for Spencer Spit in Lopez Sound. Steve had picked this one to add to our destinations, and with half a day still in front of us, off we went. We navigated the bottom of Mosquito Pass in light rain, avoiding South Henry Rock, then rounded west and north around the southern end of Henry Island. At the north end of Henry we saw the temptations of Battleship Island Reef, and held on north to leave Battleship Island to starboard before turning east into San Juan Channel.
We passed Roche Harbor and aimed for North Pass, again running through the "notorious" Wasp Islands past Shirttail and Yellow Island Reefs. Past Crane Island and Harney Channel, we explored Shoal and Swifts Bays before arriving at Spencer Spit. There are half a dozen mooring balls, but all were taken and we would just as soon anchor. We liked being to windward and closer to the Spit than the line of boats on moorings, but we also had to allow for room to swing on our anchor. We noted the tide was at about 6 feet above chart depth and our fathometer read 22 feet so we figured we would have about 16 feet of water at Wednesday morning's low tide. We dropped the hook.
Paul grilled Rick's seasoned chicken to perfection and it paired nicely with Rick's freshly made cole slaw. Just a bit amazing since the cabbage heads came from our 1st day's shopping on August 14th. While enjoying the scenery, Paul noticed that the family he saw taking their dinghy ashore to walk the spit was the same family we had been eating dinner next to us at the Madrona Bar & Grill in Roche Harbor. Small world.
Tuesday morning |
Phecal Phreak |
To Mosquito Pass ... |
crooked course ... |
mark R 4 ... |
Bell Point ... |
nice house ... |
Westcott Bay. |
W.B. Shelfish Co. ... |
picnic area. |
Into Garrison Bay |
To Garrison Bay |
Harbor seal |
Fueling the dink ... |
launching ... |
looks good ... |
trusty crew. |
Pier for ... |
Enghlish Camp ... |
Pig War ... |
Camp in 1860 ... |
current buidings. |
Trail to buildings ... |
storehouse ... |
sign ... |
Blockhouse ... |
Blockhead? ... |
sign ... |
original oak trunk ... |
parade grounds ... |
dinghy pier. |
Haro Strait |
771' freighter |
Clearing sky |
Fishing boat |
Orcas I. ferry dock |
Bay Exploring |
Shoal Bay |
Humphrey Head |
Spencer Spit ... |
anchoring ... |
great view. |
Rick's chicken |
Madrona family ... |
their boat. |
Evening. |
Go To Log Summary
Wednesday, September 1st
Our careful depth planning and anchoring location was put to the test on the morning low tide. A large flock of gulls were standing on dry land looking at us, perhaps exprecting some breakfast treats which we almost could have thrown to them. Depending on which wind puff went through, our depth reading varied from about 15' down to 9'. When hauling the anchor Steve was particularly careful to keep the stern of Zaya away from the shore. Probably just a reading from stirred up bottom, but at one point it flashed 2.3'. Safely under way at 0810, we idled through the gap betwenn the end of Spencer Spit and Frost Island. Lowest dept we saw was 23.
Paul knows an artistic family in Maine that does beautiful metal work and forging. Their son happens to do the same on Orcas Island, and Paul had been in touch and set up a visit for today. Zackarya Leck's studio was about 2.5 miles form the town dock in West Sound. We rounded Frost Island and headed back past Leo Reef, Humphrey and Upright Heads, down Harney channel and up into West Sound. Even at low water we were able to tied to the town dock and Paul and Jess set out on their walk while Rick and Steve stayed aboard. Their walk was well rewarded as they arrived at Zackarya's, even meeting some friendly horses along the way. His operation included both a large sawmill for cutting his own lumber to size and a large workshop building and forge. His work is often done on commission and a large 70' sculpture of kelp welcomes arriving ferry passengers at the Ocras Island ferry dock. Picture below. Paul and Jess didn't have to walk back to Zaya, but they did have to share the back of an open pickup truck with a layer of various materials. Zackarya's operation can be followed at www.zackaryaleck.com
We enjoyed lunch on he way back down West sound, through Harney channel once again, and then up into East Sound, bound for Rosario Resort. Rosario is the creation of shipbuilder Robert Moran whose career was is Seattle. Having arrived on the wet coast with pennies in his pocket, he worked as an engineer on ships until he earned enough to bring his brothers and sisters west, and established a ship building company with his brothers. The comapny was well regarded for building quality ships at fair prices. In addition to being aleader in rebuilding Seattle after a major fire, and serving as Mayor, he also won a contract to build the battleship Nebraska in Seattle in 1902. When he retired he employed his best shipwrights and carpenters to build the manison that is at the heart of Rosario Resort. He even build a power station using water from Cascade Lake which still provides power today.
As a resort today, in addition to seeing the beautiful carftsmanship of the building and the wealth of artifacts and pictures of the building and history of the Moran operation, there is a one hour recital and slide presentation by Christopher Peacock at 4 pm, Tuesday through Saturday. He plays both a piano and an organ in the Music Room with videos of Orcas gracefully cuising Puget sound, and many of the more than 600 slides made from the original glass slide done by Moran. It was a highlight of our trip.
We enjoyed dinner in the Mansion restaurant before turning in early.
Morning birds |
Spencer Spit Pass |
We were with them |
Frost I. dock ... |
up close. |
Upright Head ferry |
boat, plane, ferry |
Country Store, ferry |
At West Sound ... |
Boddington's Dock |
Making friends |
Sawmill / Workshop |
outside space ... |
Zackarya forms ... |
and inspects |
Model staircase |
Jellyfish swarm |
Zach's Kelp SculptureOrcas I. Ferry Dock |
East Sound |
Approaching Rosario ... |
the complex ... |
the Mansion ... |
the marina ... |
from inside ... |
Zaya. |
America figurehead |
East Sound view ... |
front door ... |
Recital announcement ... |
Summary history ... |
Robert Moran ... |
the Music Room ... |
organ console ... |
our presenter Christopher Peacock |
Go To Log Summary
Thursday, September 2nd
Horse headed for barn. Departing Rosario at 0908 in bright sun and a brisk north wind, we easd through Obstruction Pass into Roasrio Strait at 0945 to be greated by a beautiful view of Mt. Baker rising above the hills in the foreground. We thought we would explore Eagle Harbor on the east side of Cypress Island. Beautiful, but full, so we aimed for the northern boundary of Bellingham Bay and Portage Harbor.
This whole section of coast line is part of the Lummi Indian Reservation. It is one of the few sandy beach areas we saw. Though the "Harbor" part of Portage Harbor shows about 9 feet on the chart, it is unmarked and surrounded by drying flats. Steve elected the option of staying on the Portage Channel approach with a more comfortable 15' of water. We dropped the hook for one last lunch.
As Steve had said, it was time to finish off the larder. The last of the carrots, pickles and olives went into the tradional condiment bowl to accompany the ham sandwiches. They finsihed off the last of the Dejon mustard and ham as well.
We hauled anchor for the last time, with Mt. Baker gleaming between smiling Paul and Jess. A short 4.25 miles and we were inside the Bellingham breakwater to refuel and pump out the holding tank. At 1515 Zaya was safely and scecurely back in slip B-18. A wonderful cruise, and great thanks to Steve for making it happen.
Thurs. morning low ... |
disconnect shore power |
Farewell Harney Channel |
Obstruction Pass hbr ... |
opening to ... |
Rosario Strait ... |
and Mt. Baker. |
Majestic. |
Looking back down Rosario Strait |
Towhead Island |
Eagle Harbor ... |
is full. |
Viti Rocks |
Carter Point Lummi Island |
Last anchor haul! |
Bellingham breakwater ... |
Fuel dock ... |
Safe home. |
Last route. |
Great Cruise! |
Go To Log Summary
Clear Sailing.
Rick Van Mell vanmells@ix.netcom.com