Once again, Steve Blecher's 53' J-160, Javelin takes a tried and true, mostly Dartmouth grad, crew on a summer cruise. The Crew:
Steve (Dartmouth '64) boat Javelin, home port Westbrook, CT
Rick Van Mell (Dartmouth '63), boat Vanishing Animal, home port San Francisco Bay
Paul Wharton (Duke '64), boat Goldeneye, home port Stamford, CT
Jess Gregory, boat Sea Hawk, home port Keyport, NJ
Jeffrey Blecher (Dartmouth '98)
Brian Klinger (Dartmouth '62), ex-boat Special K
Mel Converse (Dartmouth '60), boat ex-boat Whim.
Michael Luskin (Harvard '73) boat Turtleheart, home port Mamaroneck, NY
Something new this year. After heading east for over 16 years, we're headed west (at least at first.) We'll start heading west from Javelin's home port of Westbrook, CT, traversing Long Island Sound to the East River, rounding Manhattan, and heading north up the Hudson River. Then, a week later, it's back to Westbrook to drop off Paul. In Newport two days later we pick up Brian, who will bring Mel for one day of sailing, then take him home before rejoing us for another week. Then we're off to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, before returning through Cuttyhunk, Newport again (and maybe see a bunch of 135' J Boats!) and Mystic Seaport before returning to Westbrook.
That was The Plan, and Shopping List, but you'll just have to read on to see what happened when the wind hit The Plan!
Pictures by Jess Gregory and Rick Van Mell, and are grouped between days. There may be even be a few movie clips too.
The table below summarizes daily runs and the date is a link to that day's log. Elasped time is generally time under way and has sometimes been adjusted for lunch stops. Cells with a darker background color represent changes from the original Plan.
Log Summary
Day |
Date |
From |
To |
Depart |
Arrive |
Elapsed | b
Plan |
Track |
Ave |
Engine |
Engine |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Miles |
Miles |
Speed |
Hour |
Time |
|
|
|
|
|
|
HH:MM |
NM |
NM |
Knots |
Meter |
Hours |
| | | | | | | | | | 315 | |
1 | Thurs 8/3 | Westbrook | Port Jefferson | 9:57 | 17:00 | 7:03 | 35 | 53.2 | 7.5 | 320.7 | 5.7 |
2 | Fri 8/4 | Port Jefferson | Glen Cove | 10:18 | 15:54 | 5:36 | 30 | 37.4 | 6.7 | 323.5 | 2.8 |
3 | Sat 8/5 | Glen Cove | Liberty Landing | 8:21 | 11:38 | 3:17 | 24 | 27.2 | 8.3 | 327 | 3.5 |
3a | Sat 8/5 | Liberty Landing | Liberty Landing - Day sail | 13:18 | 16:30 | 3:12 | 0 | 22.9 | 7.2 | 328 | 1 |
4 | Sun 8/6 | Liberty Landing | Hudson River Day Sail | 7:20 | 16:42 | 9:22 | Day | 73 | 7.8 | 335.3 | 8.3 |
5 | Mon 8/7 | Liberty Landing | Westbrook | 6:59 | 16:20 | 9:21 | 51 | 83.7 | 9 | 344.7 | 9.4 |
6 | Tues 8/8 | Westbrook | Westbrook - Day Sail | 13:54 | 18:03 | 4:09 | 35 | 25.8 | 6.2 | 345.7 | 1 |
7 | Wed 8/9 | Westbrook | Greenport (Shelter I.) | 10:36 | 16:25 | 5:49 | 37 | 38.1 | 6.6 | 349.7 | 4 |
8 | Thurs 8/10 | Greenport (Shelter I.) | Newport | 8:44 | 15:30 | 6:46 | 53 | 54.3 | 8 | 356 | 6.3 |
9 | Fri 8/11 | Newport | Jamestown - Day Sail | 9:00 | 16:48 | 7:48 | Day | 45.1 | 5.8 | 361.9 | 5.9 |
10 | Sat 8/12 | Jamestown | Edgartown | 7:13 | 15:45 | 8:32 | 51 | 63.7 | 7.5 | 370 | 8.1 |
11 | Sun 8/13 | Edgartown | Nantucket | 9:54 | 17:12 | 7:18 | 25 | 51.5 | 7.1 | 372.3 | 2.3 |
12 | Mon 8/14 | Nantucket | Nantucket (Ashore) | - | - | - | Day | 0 | - | 373.4 | 1.1 |
13 | Tues 8/15 | Nantucket | Edgartown | 8:34 | 12:47 | 4:13 | 25 | 29.2 | 6.9 | 377.1 | 3.7 |
14 | Wed 8/16 | Edgartown | Edgartown - Day Sail | 9:41 | 13:23 | 3:42 | Day | 27.3 | 7.4 | 378.5 | 1.4 |
14a | Wed 8/16 | Edgartown | Edgartown - Kids Sail | 16:20 | 17:43 | 1:23 | Day | 6.8 | 4.9 | 380 | 1.5 |
15 | Thurs 8/17 | Edgartown | Cuttyhunk | 9:24 | 15:00 | 5:36 | 26 | 36.6 | 6.5 | 384.4 | 5.9 |
16 | Fri 8/18 | Cuttyhunk | Newport | 7:20 | 10:55 | 3:35 | 25 | 29 | 8.1 | 385.5 | 1.1 |
17 | Sat 8/19 | Newport | Mystic Seaport | 8:39 | 16:00 | 7:21 | 38 | 45.3 | 6.2 | 390.6 | 6.2 |
18 | Sun 8/20 | Mystic Seaport | Westbrook | 8:39 | 18:44 | 10:05 | 25 | 55.3 | 5.5 | 392 | 6.5 |
19 | Tues 8/21 | Greenport/Three Mile Hbr. | Westbrook | - | - | - | 23 | | - | | 0 |
| | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | Totals: | 503 | 805.4 | 7.1 | | 85.7 |
Wed/Thurs, Aug 1/2
Rick arrived on a routine flight from San Francisco to JFK about 40 minutes late, but was picked up by Steve at 1650 and headed for Scarsdale. There the usual review of the shopping list commenced, along with Amy's input about what to take from the fridge as she was heading off for two weeks to Berlin and a cruise from London to the fjords of Norway. After Amy cooked a delicious dinner, we watched the Yankees valiantly rally against Detroit only to leave two runners stranded at the end of the game with Detroit ahead 4 to 3.
Thursday morning it was a late, 0700, call from Steve to hit the deck, and by 0815, with ablutions and breakfast astern, we were under way by car for the Acme shopping center. Loaded up with fresh fruit & veg, milk, juice and frozen veggies, we returned to the house to stow our goodies in the fridge and freezer. Then out again to Costco, and after delaying 12 minutes in the air conditioned car waiting for the 1000 opening, we marched on in, checked off the dozen items on the list with regimental precision, and emerged in 16 minutes flat. As this bounty was added to the fridge and freezer, a can of 8 big pop-and-serve biscuits slipped between Rick and Steve's hands and landed in just the right way on the hard floor to pop open. Never passing up an opportunity, the oven was set to 375, and 25 minutes later Rick & Steve started an early lunch of hot biscuits with jam and peanut butter -- followed up with tuna salad and cole slaw.
The forecast was for pop-up showers for the afternoon, though Plan A was for Paul to arrive about 1300, and we three would drive down to Stamford, CT and go for a ride on Paul's Sea Hawk 25 powerboat. Rick observed some dark clouds passing behind the trees as he and Steve finished lunch. Steve checked computer weather and indeed thunderstorms were popping up just to the west of us. He shortly advised that a severe thunderstorm warning was now being issued for Westchester county, so we headed out into the yard to see for ourselves. Sure enough, within minutes we heard thunder rumble. It was just minutes before Paul's expected arrival and drops of rain started to fall. Opening a garage bay, we stepped inside and heavy rain and Paul and Elinor arrived at the same time.
Yankee field was covered with a giant white tarp - an hour and a half rain delay. Meanwhile, severe thunderstorm warmings and flash flood warnings exploded all around us. Scratch the powerboat trip. Steve, Amy, Paul and Rick enjoyed a Chinese dinner in Scarsdale, and returned to the house to find Jess waiting for us in the driveway.
Everyone was in their bunks by 2200. Tomorrow would start early.
Go To Log Summary
Thursday, Aug 3rd
True to his word Steve had the crew awake by 0600. Showers, shaving, breakfast and all the food packing happened quickly, and at 0650 a two-car caravan departed for Westbrook, CT, and Javelin. Steve led the way with Rick, and Paul and Jess followed in another of Steve's cars, leaving Jess's car in the garage. Paul would be driving the second car back to Scarsdale in a week when the next crew-change was planned. Jess would be aboard for the full three weeks, and would eventually ride back to Scarsdale with Steve and Rick to get his car.
Arriving Westbrook at a crisp 0818, all hands turned to get gear aboard and stowed. Food found its way into fridge, freezer, lockers and on the counter. Duffel bags to cabins. Steve started up the navigation station, turning on the VHF radios, GPS, sailing instruments and chartplotter. The auxiliary "ship's computer" (a vintage 1998 Sony laptop) balked at getting started, but eventually was coaxed to life. Why you ask? It has a lifetime of Steve's collected waypoints and routes and runs Nobeltec navigation software - both the operating system and version of Nobeltec not replaceable. It gets a GPS feed from the navigation system, and is a large screen version of the chartplotter and serves as a backup and check against the Simrad navigation system that drives the autopilot. Water tanks filled, sail cover removed and stowed, and shore power cord disconnected, we moved to the fuel dock at 0940. With 24 gallons of diesel topping off the port tank, and a bag of ice added to the freezer, the cruise officially left the dock at 0957.
Hazy, humid, wind at 2 knots with a glassy sea, we powered out of Westbrook and turned west past little Duck Island on a course of 255 aimed for Port Jefferson, 30 miles ahead. Off to starboard, the Connecticut shore was soon lost in haze and a few low cumulus starting to build. To port the dark line of the north shore of Long Island grew steadily more pronounced as we closed with Port Jefferson.
Ship's routines have been practiced and refined over many years, and meals fit that pattern. Lunch typically begins with a condiment bowl of mini-carrots, olives, pickles and radishes to whet the whistle. To accommodate individual tastes, Rick makes up a table of who prefers which spread (Dijonaise, Mayo or Country Crock), bread type if there's a choice, and yes/no for cheese, tomato, onion, lettuce and / or horseradish. Roast Beef started off this cruise.
Running under engine, autopilot and GPS makes for predictable navigation, and we arrived off Port Jefferson as predicted at 1410. Dodging the large Port Jeff to Bridgeport ferry P. T. Barnum, we toured the large open harbor, then, encouraged by 8 knots of wind, decided to go out for a sail. A long 10-mile loop around Stratford Shoal in the middle of Long Island Sound was just right. Javelin made good use of the breeze, hitting 6 knots in only 8 knots of wind.
Back at anchor in Port Jeff by 1710, we set the riding sail, relaxed and enjoyed the traditional 1st night out dinner of steak on the grill with salad and mashed potatoes.
Javelin right black mast |
Showers & Boom Restaurant |
Duffels in back ... |
foood ... |
let's unload ... |
second car too |
Getting aboard ... |
Steve ... |
opens up ... |
turns on nav station |
warm-up time. |
Food is piled ... |
ready to receive ... |
fridge empty ... |
and full. |
freezer empty .. |
and full ... |
Soft stuff ... |
spice cabinet ... |
fruit ... |
and beverages. |
Meal Plan! |
Cloudy start. |
Jess, Rick Steve, Paul |
Under way ... |
overview route |
Jess is relaxed ... |
flat water ... |
but going fast. |
Roast beef lunch ... |
who wants what. |
Port Jeff ... |
ferry is ... |
BIG. |
Breakwater ... |
Port Jefferson ... |
so Steve says ... |
Let's go sailing ... |
nice set makes ... |
crew happy. |
Steve too. |
That's the ... |
Stratford Shoal light. |
Heading back ... |
other side. |
Anchor is set ... |
riding sail too ... |
happy hour ... |
hot off the grill ... |
tastes great. |
nice sunset. |
Go To Log Summary
Friday, Aug 4th
Cell phone radar confirmed that the black cloud approaching from the west at 0700 was indeed a big thunderstorm cell. While lightning flashed and thunder crackled close aboard, we prepared breakfast. Patchy blue sky returned by 0730 as we ate. But, another large clump of green, yellow and red was marching east from Manhattan and, since our route for the day was right into it, we did the dishes, updated the log, and waited patiently at anchor.
By 1018 the worst had blown through with clearing visible to the west. So off we went. At the Port Jeff headland we set sail and enjoyed a full day of sailing under sunny skies. The breeze picked up and we sailed right on across Hemstead Harbor bay and almost to Execution Rocks at the western end of Long Island Sound. That's for tomorrow, so we tacked back toward Glen Cove and, rail down, drove Javelin to windward in 13 - 18 knots of wind.
We probably put on a great show for the folks on shore as we charged right up to the mooring field, tacked to port and smartly rolled up the jib and dropped the main. Our entrance to the inner basin was delayed as a small commercial catamaran was coming out. Doing 4.5 knots, we briefly plowed a furrow in the narrowest part of the entrance channel before Steve did his usual precision spin and tucked Javelin neatly astern of a big power yacht.
Paul's Cottage Pie with fresh salad was delicious for dinner. Then we noticed a big empty barge headed outbound pushed by a sea-going tug. A little later, a very noisy boat passing close aboard, followed by a surge, got our attention as a single tug came inbound pushing a loaded barge. Later still, the tug departed and we relaxed into reading and log updates.
Wet Friday morning. |
Next storm approaching ... |
We are at black dot. |
Emergency Navigation ... |
not used in 17 years! |
Beautiful sailing ... |
off Eaton Neck ... |
Manhattan visible ... |
makes Steve happy. |
At Glen Cove ... |
all secure ... |
nice marina, but ... |
here comes a ... |
BIG barge and ... |
tug. |
Good night. |
Go To Log Summary
Saturday, Aug 5th
The predicted rain pattered on the cabin top and a few rolls of thunder creased the predawn hours. 15 knots of northwest wind and a few remaining raindrops ceased as we moved Javelin to the fuel dock to pump out the holding tanks. Then we were under way for the East River and Manhattan.
The broad expanse of Long Island Sound pinches down under 2 miles wide at Execution Rocks, between Manhasset Neck and Pelham. In the mid 1700s, the British would take prisoners out and chain them to the rocks at low tide to slowly await their fate.
Ahead to port, the light at Stepping Stones Rocks lies off Kings Point, home of the US Merchant Marine Academy. Just ahead on the starboard side, at Ft. Schuyler, is SUNY Maritime, the New York State Maritime Academy. And for trivia, Ft. Schuyler is named after Alexander Hamilton's father-in-law.
Turning west, into the official East River, the first of the bridges, going over SUNY Maritime, is Throgs Neck, followed by the Whitestone Bridge. Both are typical ways out of La Guardia and JFK if headed north. Just after Whitestone, we passed under the flight path into LaGuardia and had our share of inbound flights overhead.
Just beyond Rikers Island, known for its prison, we turn south between the Brother Islands and run down the length of Ward Island lying to starboard. At the southern end of Ward we pass under the Hell Gate and Triborough bridges into the whirpool of Hell Gate itself. This is the confluence of the Harlem River, which cuts across the top of Manhattan and makes it an island, and the East River. It was in this stretch that we hit 12.1 knots over the bottom.
Strong rip current continued until we passed under the Queensborough bridge and approached Mid-Town and the United Nations building. Above it all towered the giants of the New York skyline. Familiar names like the
Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, and the new Freedom Tower (replaced the World Trade Center buildings) and a 100-story stick of an apartment building at 57th street.
Just after the Williamsburg bridge, we turned west to round the corner at the bottom of Manhattan. Ahead, all lined up, were the Manhattan Bridge, Brooklyn Bridge, and the Statue of Liberty. We were arriving in New York Harbor! The giant orange Staten Island ferry gave a loud, long blast and pulled out into the haphazard fleet of tour boats, pleasure boats, and commercial boats while 5 helicopters jockeyed into and out of the heliport next door.
Since it was still only about 1030, we powered down east of Governors Island and rounded up west to the Statue of Liberty, and back north to enter Liberty Landing on the New Jersey shore abeam of The Battery. We got our dock assignment, checked in, had lunch, and then went out to play in New York Harbor.
Plenty of breeze to sail and we charged along at 7 - 9 knots down the harbor all the way to the Verrazano Bridge. We tacked back and worked our way along the north side of the harbor, dodging Staten I. ferries, and found two 12 Meters taking tourists out for a sail. We tried to engage them in a little racing fun, but they weren't interested. We did, however, tack to cover or lead them for several miles before giving up and sailing up the Hudson on the west side of New York. Again a whole mix of vessels on the water, it being a busy and beautiful Saturday afternoon. A giant cruise ship slipped south, with a blue-light-blinking NYPD escort.
We arrived back at the entrance to Liberty Landing Marina at 1430, but it was 50 minutes to actually get to our dock. First there was total congestion in the narrow entrance so we did a slow turn. Then, creeping in, we lagged behind power boats jockeying for the fuel dock and turned into our fairway only to find another power boat tied to part of our dock. We quickly stopped at the only end tie to sort things out, only to be told that the next boat behind us was supposed to go there! It was another 30 minutes to get it all sorted out and Javelin secure at the dock.
All hands agreed that spaghetti and meatballs aboard was a better idea than dinner ashore amid the boisterous Saturday night crowd. As it was, party sounds lingered easily past 2000, though our crew was oblivious as we doused the smoking lamp about 2200.
Saturday morning ... |
is wet ... |
Leaving Glen Cove |
brief wind. |
Crew's on watch. |
Execution Rocks New Rochelle |
Execution - Kings Point |
Stepping stones light |
Kings Pt. Academy |
Throgs Neck Bridge |
SUNY Maritime ... |
spelled out |
Under Throgs Neck |
Throgs - Whitestone |
Whitestone Bridge |
Whitestone Bridge |
The Brothers Islands |
La Guardia approach |
Rikers - La Guardia |
La Guardia tower |
Ex-Rikers I. Prison barge ... |
playing basketball?! |
Hell Gate - Triborough |
Hell Gate Bridge |
Triborough Br. beyond |
into the whirpool ... |
12.1 over the bottom |
Queensborough Br. |
nasty water |
Old cable car |
Must be Mid Town! |
Chrysler Building |
United Nations Building |
Empire State Building and what??!! |
Williamsburg Bridge |
Tourist Manhattan |
NYPD Boat |
Manhattan Bridge Brooklyn Bridge Lady Liberty |
Brooklyn Br Detail |
Old and New! |
South Street Seaport |
Rounding Manhattan |
Staten Island Ferry ... |
gets under way. |
New York Harbor |
Verazano Bridge |
Across Governors Island |
Staten I. Ferry Bayonne Bridge |
Time for ... |
Lady Liberty |
Entering ... |
Liberty Landing Marina |
Dock House ... |
marina ... |
at the dock with ... |
Freedom Tower astern! |
NY Harbor sail |
Tourist schooner. |
Verazano Narrows Bridge |
Old fort where Brian got married! |
Cargo lightering |
Here she comes again .. |
Lady Liberty. |
12 Meter play time |
there are 2 |
chasing them |
Glorious Manhattan! |
Up the Hudson |
Downbound schooner |
Cruise ship too. |
Golf driving range! |
They will ... |
set sail. |
Evening colors ... |
all is well. |
Go To Log Summary
Sunday, Aug 6th
Though not planned, the crew was up in the 0630 range and finished off a fruit and cereal breakfast in time for an 0720 departure for our cruise up the Hudson River.
Paul was a terrific tour guide pointing out buildings along the way and even talked wife Elinor into spotting us and taking a picture of us as we headed up river. Another friend actually got another picture of us off 103rd Street! As on the East River, the Hudson side had its share of strange shaped buildings towering among the stately brownstones. The picture at the aircraft carrier Intrepid seaport, showed the ship, jet and submarine backed by the Empire State Building. As big as they were, however, they were dwarfed by the Norwegian Lines cruise ship at the next pier!
We rode the flood current and slid easily under the New Jersey to New York George Washington Bridge, with its tiny lighthouse almost hidden in the structure of its east tower. But, in its defense, it's the subject of the book "The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge."
The stately rocks of the Palisades of New Jersey towered even above Javelin's spar. Lining the western shore of the Hudson, they march north until merging with the rolling hills and ridge that shape the Hudson Valley. At 1015, 22 miles up the Hudson, we passed under both the old Tappan Zee Bridge and the twin roadways being built just upstream.
Another 14 miles and we declared victory and turned back south at 1154 under the power lines between Indian Point and Stony Point and Haverstraw Bay. The current slowly turned with us, and it built in our favor as we headed back to Liberty Landing.
At 1407, about 8 miles north of the George Washington Bridge, we set sail and killed the engine. Though the wind was still light, 7- 8 knots, we were making 5-6 knots through the water, and 7 - 8 knots over the bottom. We played the wind shifts, favoring the New Jersey side when the wind veered north of west, and pinching up when the wind backed south of west. This continued for about 15 miles, just short of Liberty Landing. We even crossed the stern of the big Norwegian Lines cruise ship just as she blew her long blast and started backing out.
Dinner was pork chops, applesauce and mixed veg.
Sunday morn dishes |
Old NJ Central RR |
Holland tunnel vent |
Old Erie Lackawana .. |
rail terminal. |
New Jersey side ... |
NY side. |
Intrepid seaport Empire State Bld |
Cruise ship ... |
dwarfs them! |
Back toward Liberty Landing |
Javelin from 67th Street by Elinor |
Javelin from 103rd St by Pete |
5 Miles to George Washington Br. |
79th St. Marina |
Grant's Tomb and Riverside Church |
GW Bridge ... |
Western tower ... |
Little Red Lighthouse |
Bridge cyclists |
Spuyten Duyvil bridge ... |
Harlem River |
Top of Manhattan |
Palisades stretch on |
5 Miles to Tappan Zee |
Great rocks ... |
and erosion. |
Picture perfect. |
Tappan Zee ... |
much construction ... |
last section ... |
two roads ... |
great towers. |
Want some rocks? |
Haverstraw |
Stony Point ... farthest north |
Heading back ... |
Steve's alert for ... |
Sing Sing Prison! |
Liberty Landing ... |
hosts weddings. |
Pork chops cooking |
Good night. |
Go To Log Summary
Monday, Aug 7th
Under way at 0659 to catch the flood up the East River. Though the sky was dark with intermittent raindrops, there was no wind. Rounding the Battery, we charged under the Brooklyn Bridge in just 19 minutes, doing 11.4 knots over the bottom. The East Side slid past as the current carried us up the East River, at times going faster than the cars stuck in stop and go traffic. Along Roosevelt Island, approaching Hell Gate, we peaked at 14.0 knots, and stayed in the 12 - 13.5 range. We passed La Guardia Airport, again with flights right overhead, and were swept out of the East River at Throgs Neck at 0826 -- a very quick hour and a half.
At Execution Rocks, Steve made the call to shape our course for Westbrook. The forecast, and radar, predicted thunderstorms for late in the day, and his preference was the secure dock back at Westbrook rather than at anchor at either Port Jefferson or New Haven. Rick set waypoints to clear Lloyd Neck and dodge Stratford Shoal - our playground on the first day out. We should be at Stratford Shoal around 1300 and we will have three options. First, continue on 32 miles to Westbrook for a 1700 arrival. If thunderstorms look like they will arrive before then, we can turn northeast and run up into New Haven (our original destination for today) and get in two hours earlier at 1500. If bad weather is coming even more quickly, we can turn south and be in Port Jeff in half an hour at 1330.
Ham sandwiches sufficed for lunch. At 1245 we passed Stratford Shoal, and the strongest thunderstorms were still in southern New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Though it was raining off and on, and NOAA had issued flash flood watches for New York city and northern New Jersey, we set the waypoint for Westbrook with a projected arrival time around 1615. That should get us in before thunderstorms arrive.
Steve dug out the remote, hand-held autopilot control and after much consulting of the instructions, he could sit under the dodger and steer the boat. The engine droned on. And on. And the last 31 mile leg from Stratford Shoal to Westbrook slowly slipped astern. At 1430 all hands got hot chocolate and a Laurie Gregory chocolate chip cookie (Patent Pending.) As 1600 approached it got darker and darker. But the force was with us, making 9.6 knots over the ground with about a knot of ebb current.
Steve gave out assignments: no stopping at the fuel dock in the rain; Rick to jump ashore with the spring line, then grab the stern line; Jess jumps ashore and goes forward to get the bow line from Paul. A second bow line, and hooking up the shore power will complete the process. At 1620 all was secure and we retreated below to listen to the rain on the cabin top and declared victory.
Paul's chili, rice and green beans was a warm and welcome dinner.
Monday morning ... |
crossed a barge ... |
heading for ... |
The Battery ... |
Ferry docks ... |
he just left ... |
Heliport ... |
South Street Seaport. |
Crazy clouds |
He's on the ... |
glide path. |
Nice Concordia yawl |
Whitestone Br astern |
Dead flat water |
Approaching Eaton can ... |
abeam. |
Rain jackets ... |
remote navigation |
Last 2 miles |
Dark below |
into Westbrook ... |
channel at ... |
low tide ... |
fuel dock empty ... |
our fairway ... |
into the slip ... |
it's wet out here! |
Go To Log Summary
Tuesday, Aug 8th
An 0700 rise and shine seemed so decadent! We feasted on a McHank muffin/egg/ham/cheese breakfast and took our time. Having pushed all the way to Westbrook yesterday, we were essentially a day ahead of our plan.
Dark clouds and damp skies still prevailed, and we took our time reviewing the shopping list and assembling laundry. Paul gathered up his gear and headed home - his week of the cruise complete. Steve, Rick & Jess headed down the road to Old Saybrook where we first dropped our laundry in four washing machines at the laundromat and left Jess there to make the washer to dryer transition. Steve & Rick headed for the Big Y Market to reprovision. Fresh fruit and veg were at the top of the list, plus juice and milk. By the time the shopping was done, Jess had our laundry in the dryers and we returned to help with the folding.
By the time we were back at the boat and had things towed, it was almost time for lunch. Steve kept looking for sunshine to declare a sailing afternoon, but there were still plenty of dark clouds. We had lunch at Simmon's Market Deli where Steve and Rick had salads and Jess a pulled pork sandwich.
Returning to the boat, Steve pointed to both sunshine and a flag waving and declared it time to go for a sail. We shoved the slip at 1354 and headed out. No wind. Then a little. Hoisted sail -- did 3 knots for a while. As the wind alternated blowing from the north, then south, things were slow. Steve became fly swatter sargent-at-arm and adroitly dispatched over 30 flies in the cockpit -- clean up is still on the To Do List. By now the wind settled in from the west southwest around 8 - 10 knots and we had a delightful 25 mile sail for the afternoon.
We arrived back at the fuel dock in Westbrook at 1803 and filled both diesel tanks before returning to our slip by 1820. It was a quiet evening.
McHank breakfast |
Proofing the log |
Going out for a sail |
Jess is happy |
So is Steve. |
Approaching Westbrook |
Go To Log Summary
Wednesday, Aug 9th
Kept the forward and aft cabin A/C going all night and slept like a log. French toast for breakfast about 0800 fueled us for morning chores.
Back on the first day of the cruise, when stowing the sail cover in the aft lazarete, Jess's sunglasses slipped down into the bottom of the boat. Rick crawled in to retrieve them, and just brushing the air conditioning vent hose knocked it off the fan connection. It had come loose last year and we searched for some time to find out why the air conditioning unit was running and the cooling water coming out the stern, but no cold air was reaching the cabins. So today Jess got a 5" hose clamp from the yard store and tightly secured the aft cabin air conditioning ducts to the fan connection. Problem now securely solved.
Another set of chores involved water. Fill the water tanks; wash the cockpit; and get ice. So Jess comes back from trying to go to the head on shore and says the head (bathroom) is closed. Steve directs Jess to another one near the yard office. Steve's going to the office anyway. So Steve returns and says, "You know those projects that need water?" "Well, something's broken and there is no water." Luckily for us, by the time Rick walked down to the dock office and got ice, the water was back on so we started the remaining two water chores. The cockpit looked like a slaughter house after Steve's decimation of the fly population yesterday afternoon. Jess armed with a sponge and Soft Scrub had everything gleaming, including chasing all of the accumulated mildew from the winch handle holders.
Chores done, we got under way at 1026. Light air, but sunny and clear. We motored for Plum Gut about 13 miles east southeast of Westbrook. Plum Island is the eastern-most end of the north fork of the outer end of Long Island. Better known Montauk is the outer end of the southern fork. Between these two forks is Shelter Island, and our course was set for a clockwise trip to Greenport, our destination for the night.
At 1145, 6.6 miles from Plum Gut, making 6.6 knots over the bottom, Rick started lunch. The condiment bowl made the rounds followed by roast beef sandwiches. All completed by 1220, with still 2 miles to the Gut. At 1238 we passed the Gut, and Rick & Jess knew that Steve would want to set sail as soon as possible.
But the wind gods did not cooperate. The wind dropped to 2 knots. So we powered down to Cedar Point and started rounding Shelter Island. First we passed Sag Harbor. Then, at the turn to pass West Neck Harbor, with 4 knots of wind, Steve declared it was time to set sail. At times the wind increased to 6 knots, but it was coming from where we had to go, so we had to tack back and forth to make progress. Further, the current was gently against us. Nine tacks and one hour later, we had covered 1.5 miles in a straight line. You can see our track in a picture. Just goes to show that with determination, most anything is possible. (But in this case one might question if determination equaled wisdom.)
The wind increased and we finally completed our circumnavigation and arrived off Greenport at 1616. Sails doused, Steve executed a masterful backing job into our slip.
Wendesday breakfast |
Clean cockpit |
Filling water tanks |
Lunch condiments |
Plum Gut light |
Cedar Pt. Light |
Under sail ... |
1 hour - 1.5 miles |
In our slip ... |
looking great ... |
but sticking out ... |
breast bow line! |
Go To Log Summary
Thursday, Aug 10th
Eager to get under way for the long haul to Newport, Steve had juice, coffee and oatmeal ready at 0625. We cast off dock lines at 0646 ... and were aground in about 1 boatlength. We tried backing into the slip and spinning close to the outer pilings, but each time we came to a stop in mud. The fathometer, which is forward of the keel read 8.4 feet, but still our 7' keel was in mud. It was dead low tide.
For the next hour and a quarter we watched the fathometer range from 8.3 to 8.5. At 0802, at 8.7 - 8.8, we were able to push ahead and float free ... the fathometer quickly went up to 8.9, 9.3, and even 9.9. Then, half way out the fairway, we hit bottom again. The fathometer down to 7.4.
At 0810 we backed up and tried again. Stopped with 8.1. At 0825 the bow started swinging. We tried again and got about half a boatlength before stopping with the fathometer at 7.8. The powerboat we were half in front of wanted to get out, so we backed up at 0839, let him out, and tried again ... finally out of the fairway. A couple of low readings as we slowly worked our way across the harbor, then we cleared Greenport into deep water at 0844. Two hours late we were on our way to Newport.
Six and a half hours later we arrived in Newport. We had rolled out the jib about noon to give us an extra fraction of a knot, but the wind was up and down and well aft, so we used the engine the whole way.
The stately mansions on Castle Hill stood out against the clear sky as we arrived. Tourist schooners crossed our path as mega yachts dotted the landscape. Even a venerable 12 Meter from the 1960's America's Cup era looked glistening with a happy crew of tourists aboard.
We picked up mooring 506 in Newport Harbor at 1530, in plain sight of Harbour Court, New York Yacht Club's clubhouse. Time for showers and changing into our Javelin shirts. We gathered ashore on the patio of NYYC overlooking Newport Harbor, and sat back to enjoy the view and the cool breeze.
Brian and Mel arrived about 1745, and we enjoyed catching up. As Steve had planned, this was NYYC's Seafood Buffet night, and it was excellent in the style one would expect at NYYC. The appetizer round started with jumbo shrimp, clams Rockefeller and a custom-made-for-you clam chowder bar. There was a base chowder, and at least 10 ingredients that could be added, including red peppers, potato, onion, bacon, chives, lobster meat, shrimp meat, and clams. We filled our plates and sat on the patio table enjoying the view of Thursday night racing and an array of other boats sailing on Narragansett Bay outside the harbor.
The main course round featured choices of whole lobsters with butter, seared salmon or halibut, beef tenderloin with horseradish sauce, roast chicken or penne pasta, plus several salads. And finally the dessert round offered about 15 different choices from fruit tarts to variations of chocolate, and even a few cookies.
Brian drove down to the dock and we put all the collected goodies in a cart, and after waiting for the sunset gun at 1952 and the lowering of the NYYC burgee and the American flag, took the launch back out to Javelin. All gear stowed, we relaxed until turning in by 2200.
Stuck just ... |
outside slip. |
now we're ... |
half way out ... |
checking fathometer. |
Still stuck. |
Old timer ... |
here's another |
Castle Hill light ... |
pick a castle ... |
any castle ... |
big enough? |
Elegant 12 Meter |
Tourist schooners |
Fort Adams |
At Newport |
On our mooring ... |
Steve's relaxed ... |
NYYC Harbour Court |
A 12 coming ... |
and going. |
A giant! |
Javelin on mooring |
Majestic |
Panarama of ... |
Newport Harbor ... |
55 years together Mel, Brian, Steve, Rick |
Delicicious dessert! |
This is an ... |
old R boat! |
Looking up ... |
before sunset. |
Go To Log Summary
Friday, Aug 11th
A shallow but thick fog wrapped Newport tightly. The deck dripped with dew. Nearby boats were hardly visible, but the tops of the Newport Bridge towers, and the upper deck of a cruise ship poked above the fog. By 0900 Steve's son Jeffery had arrived and it was clearing, so we started a tour of the mega yachts typical of Newport Harbor. The biggest of the big, and longest of the long hang out here. Javelin, large by most standards, was less than one third the length of the biggest giants.
Among the first of the big boats we passed was the 165' yacht Galant Lady owned by the man who has the Toyota and Lexus distribution rights in the southeastern US. It turns out, he is a client of Jeff's firm and he and Jen have had more than a few rides aboard in the Caribbean. Oh, there is a same size sister ship and a fleet of sixteen 34' to 65' other boats to assist in getting into harbors, or just finding a nice beach somewhere.
Along the harbor similar giants were stretched at various docks and piers. The apex of this display is Newport Shipyard. Four 135' J Boats were hanging out -- and they were at the lower end of the dozen goliaths tied up there. The pictures hardly do them justice. Just looking at two big guys working on the bow of a J Boat give some idea of scale. The spinnaker pole on deck is 35' -- about the same length as Rick's whole boat!
After the harbor tour, with the fog gone, Steve pointed our bow to sea in search of wind. Not much there. Rick suggested trying the West Passage up Narragansett Bay to see if the warming land was sucking in breeze. Steve made noises about setting the spinnaker when we found 5 knots of wind. The crew's union committee met and declared setting the chute in less than 7 knots would be cause for double time pay. Alas their stalling tactics were of no avail as the wind touched 6 and edged toward 7 knots.
The main was hoisted at 0911; Rick & Jeff went forward and prepared the spinnaker, and by 0918 we were doing 6 knots under spinnaker in 6 knots of wind. To achieve this speed we could not go directly with the wind but angle about 30 - 40 to each side - just like tacking up into the wind, we "tacked" downwind. This is the same thing the America's Cup boats did going down wind -- but they could hit 3 times the wind speed, making 30 knots in 10 knots of wind. We gybed 8 times going north up the Western Passage. it wasn't long before the gybes were smooth, if not quite perfect. Steve was at the helm, Brian and Jess alternated on the spinnaker sheets, Rick would run the clew down the deck on each gybe, and Jeff would free the old sheet so Rick could haul it in on the new gybe.
At the north end of Conanicut Island we dropped the spinnaker and began beating into the wind down the East Passage back to Newport. Mel took the helm for this stretch. When we reached Newport, the New York Yacht Club Cruise boats were pouring up the channel into Newport. All kinds and sizes of boats were everywhere. Even Hanuman the giant J Boat was in the mix. Even though not under sail, her shear size dominated the waterfront.
We fueled and picked up a mooring at Jamestown, across from Newport. A traditional 1st night steak dinner for Mel and Brian suited everyone. Then we powered back across to Newport so Brian and Mel could get off and Brian would drive Mel home to North Andover, planning to rejoin us in the morning. It had been a beautiful day of sailing in one of the most well-known sailing centers in the world.
Brian called about 2100 to advise that he had gotten a call from his wife Lise that she was not feeling well. So, after dropping Mel at North Andover, he was going to continue to their home in Rye, New Hampshire.
Friday morning ... |
fog and ... |
dew. |
Bridge tower tips. |
NYYC's Navette ... |
delivers Jeffrey ... |
at the helm ... |
Gallant Lady Jeff's client! |
Tiny seaplane! |
From London. |
Fuel Barge |
Downtown Newport |
Pretty 12 Meter |
and another. |
Old part of ... |
Newport Shipyard ... |
big haulout ... |
Mega slips! |
true giants ... |
Athena is ... |
special from ... |
all angles. |
Super classics ... |
Impressive J Boat ... |
two more .. |
clean decks ... |
nice teak ... |
spinnaker pole! ... |
bow work. |
Big enough? |
Knickerbocker |
Patience for what? |
Ft. Adams |
Cruise Ship & Tender |
Dartmouth: Mel '60 Brian '62, Rick '63 Steve '64, Jeffrey '98 |
Under power ... |
Mel & Jess ... |
Brian. |
Now it's time to ... |
fly the spinnaker ... |
full and by, and ... |
good aloft. |
6 knots speed; 6 knots wind |
Mel at the helm |
Party boat ... |
some racers come ... |
close aboard. |
Rose Island light |
Big J Boat ... |
dwarfs the fort ... |
and schooner too ... |
epic scale ... |
gleaming topsides ... |
wide deck ... |
Hanuman |
Newport daysail |
Javelin dessert. |
Mel and Brian ... |
head ashore. |
Go To Log Summary
Saturday, Aug 12th
Rain, as predicted, drenched the boat overnight. Other than getting up to close the ports, it made for good sleeping. That is, until the usual 0630 Steve noises roused the crew. Brian knew the routine, and he called about 0640 to advise that, thou Lise was OK, he was standing by at home and wouldn't be rejoining Javelin today.
That settled, juices, coffee and Cheerios were quickly consumed, and we departed Jamestown at 0713. Clear skies could be seen off to the northwest, but plenty of black clouds filled the horizon to the south. Jeff's cell radar showed a heavy band of yellow and some red marching east-northeast, with dot for us just barely on the northern edge.
Rick suggested running up Buzzards Bay to Quicks Hole and turning south east into Vineyard Sound there rather than Steve's traditional route of running south from Newport to clear the Elizabeth Islands and then turn east into Vineyard Sound. Much grumbling, but with Jeff confirming that the current would be with us into Buzzards Bay, Steve agreed. We set the course to include the R2 buoy south of Sakonnet Point, then to Steve's Buzzards Bay entrance south of Horseshoe Beach and Hen & Chickens Rocks. Jeff spotted Gallant Lady astern, also making her way to Edgartown, but going the outside route and about 12 knots compared to our 8.
Light rain started as we closed with Sakonnet Point, and Steve called for the autopilot hand-held remote. With double computers, Jeff's cell, and looking through the dodger, the crew could stay mostly dry as we continued on our way. All that navigational attention dissuaded the rain gods and the rain stopped shortly. Steve still used the remote to "dodge" into the wake of a passing powerboat, and again a green can along the route.
Smooth water and favorable current were good, but it was cold enough that the 1000 "Liquids anyone?" call produced piping hot Swiss Miss with a whipped cream topping as we passed Cuttyhunk and approached Quick's Hole. We arrived at Quicks at 1036 and were flushed through into Vineyard Sound in 8 minutes at 10.5 knots by the current. Turning east, we aimed at the north end of Martha's Vineyard.
The current carried us quickly along and we found out where our mooring was in Edgartown Harbor, and dropped Jeffery at the town dock, about 1300. Then we went back out to watch the 12 Meter races held north of the entrance channel. Everyone was waiting for wind, but we powered around got a good look at many of the famous names from America's Cup history. Intrepid, Courageous, Weatherly, American Eagle and Freedom in particular. There were two New Zealand boats too. Finally about 7 knots of wind steadied and they ran three starts for the various ages of 12s. Though not exciting sailing, it was graceful beauty at its best. The gloomy day added an almost black-and-white effect. Then we powered back into the harbor, took the launch ashore, and walked up to Jeff & Jen's house in Edgartown for dinner.
A wonderful warm reception from Jeff, Jen, Livi and Aven, and dog Winnie. Showers and log updates plus entertainment from the girls were a fun prelude to a delicious Jeff-grilled kabob dinner, with basil picking and eggplant preparation assistance from Livi, topped off with a perfect peach pie. We walked back down to the docks and took the harbor launch back to Javelin, arriving about 2200.
Gloomy morning ... |
dark below ... |
rigging the ... |
Edgartown YC burgee |
Double GPS! |
Sakonnet - Buzzards |
Buzzard - Quicks Hole |
Into Quicks Hole ... |
10.3 knots |
Quicks - Vineyard Sound |
on to Edgartown |
Entering Edgartown |
265' Yacht |
Edgartown light ... |
all boat sizes |
Checking out ... |
city dock ... |
Edgartown YC |
Another giant ... |
very sleek. |
12 Meters are ... |
waiting for wind. |
getting a little ... |
heading for start ... |
Weatherly ... |
looks thin ... |
crew is waiting. |
Ready for ... |
1st start ... |
1st cross |
2nd start. |
Freedom splits |
3rd start. |
1st spinnaker set |
and 2nd |
2nd fleet rounds |
Intrepid ... |
Weatherly |
Rafting up at EYC. |
Saturday evening |
Go To Log Summary
Sunday, Aug 13th
Rain drops and fog. Casual start with eggs and sausage finished by 0800. Though we'd gotten on the pump-out boat list about 0730, rain delayed the actual pump out until 0935. Fog lifted, and some sun breaks appearing, we're now waiting to see if Jeff or Jen and some combination of the girls will come for a morning sail before we depart for Nantucket.
By 0954 Jeff and Olivia had boarded from the launch and we cast off the mooring. Livi helped steer us out of the harbor. We went past Gallant Lady anchored just outside, and then headed into open water. Setting sails at 1017, we sailed for an hour before heading back in to drop off Jeff and Livi for their lunch.
Dropping them at 1125, we headed back out for Nantucket. We passed yesterday's and this morning's play areas and turned east. The skies slowly cleared and by 1215 we had clear skies with the sails set. It was a delightful sail on to Nantucket.
The wind slowly increased and we were doing over 8 knots as we sailed toward the Nantucket channel. Steve's cell phone rang -- it was the Nantucket Harbormaster checking if we were still coming. Perfect timing -- we charged into the harbor, found our mooring, dropped a waypoint on the chart, and sailed back out to enjoy the afternoon. Javelin romped along at just under 9 knots as the wind increased to 16 -18 knots.
When we came back in about 1630, we toured the harbor and just happened to be spotted by Dartmouth Sailing coach Justin Assad who runs a sailing program in Nantucket during the summer, and had a quick, fun exchange. Our mooring was right at the end of the entrance channel so we had a front row seat for the evening traffic.
Pork shops for dinner, then 007 "Tomorrow Never Dies" for a movie.
Livi's happy ... |
at the helm ... |
that's a cool ... |
water slide! |
Intrepid |
12s at play. |
Grumpy, Dopy, Goofy and ... |
Sleepy. |
Lunch time |
Jess in charge |
gaff-rigged classic |
Nantucket .... |
Brant Pt. light |
Great sailing ... |
good breeze. |
Nantucket harbor ... |
small classic ... |
and mega toys. |
Dartmouth Sailing coach Justin Assad |
Nibbles |
All secure. |
Coming up on ... |
sunset. |
Go To Log Summary
Monday, Aug 14th
Lazy pancake breakfast morning; then ashore at 0930. Enjoyed the Whaling Museum, though the "Nantucket" movie, though well done, was a bit long at 52 minutes. We walked back across Main Street to catch the 1140 WAVE bus to the airport where Jess picked up the rental car he had reserved. We followed Milepost road east to Sconset, then turned north along Nantucket's eastern Atlantic coast.
We worked the local road to Sankaty lighthouse. The lightest of fog added a perfect Nantucket feel. The bluff was heavily fenced off, and we soon learned why. "When Sankaty Light first shone its beacon over those shoals in 1850, it was 280 feet from the edge of the bluff. When it was moved in October 2007, it was 68 feet away." It was moved 405 feet northwest during the first 10 days of October, 2007.
Following Polpis Road, we turned off to find Pocomo where the map showed a road dead-ending on a sand spit into Greater Nantucket Harbor. With not a car in sight, we found the turn, and the left turn aimed at the spit. A half mile later the asphalt gave way to hard packed, and somewhat rough, washboard dirt and sand. Intrepid we carried on until, with the road now just 1 car wide, we saw water, parked cars, and a car coming our way. Luckily there was a small driveway where we were and we pulled to one side and the other car came out. We continued down to a packed parking lot where we briefly stopped and Rick and Jess got out and indeed saw lots of boats anchored and many folks on the beach. With Steve standing outside the car and calling clearances, we were able to turn around with just inches to spare.
Farther along Polpis Road we came to the Shipwreck and Lifesaving Museum. Right near the entrance there is a relief map of Nantucket with a button to push that shows shipwrecks. Not all 750 recorded wrecks light up, but there is no shore of the Island free of red lights for more than a quarter mile. One March storm accounted for 60 wrecks.
We returned the car to Hertz at the airport and took the bus back into town. At 1600 we walked to Ed and Barbara Hajim's house overlooking the channel into the harbor. Ed and Steve have been business partners for over 30 years. A delightful catch-up on their patio wrapped up the afternoon.
Catching the launch, we arrived back on Javelin at 1730. As we were approaching Steve had noted that we were facing a different direction from the other boats. Since we were at the immediate entrance to the harbor, current would easily have accounted for the difference. However, once aboard, we saw that the mooring line was very tight and headed sharply toward the stern on the starboard side of the boat. The now likely situation was that the boat had swung within the very long length of the mooring line and had somehow wrapped around the keel! We tried several backing and turning moves, but still the mooring line was bar-tight and the mooring can nowhere to be seen. Steve called the mooring service and left a message, it now being after 1800. Our thought had been to simply take the twin mooring lines off the bow cleats and drop them overboard and power away and pick them up later. But, since the starboard one was bar tight and not enough play in the port one to get it off the cleat, we decided to leave things alone until morning.
Edgartown Playground |
Edgartown - Nantucket |
Nantucket map |
Sankaty Light |
Light locations ... |
Bluff errosion |
History |
This is the ... |
Shipwreck museum ... |
tough times. |
Waiting for Godot |
Go To Log Summary
Tuesday, Aug 15th
Started calling Nantucket Moorings about 0630, both on cell and channel 68. Steve found the mooring ball underwater on the port side amidships. Finally connected with Nantucket Moorings shortly after 0700, and he called a diver. The moorings guy arrived shortly before 0800, and tried one pull to see if we could dislodge the ball. The diver arrived 0815 and after a quick look, cut the nylon section about 2' from the ball and it immediately popped free. We were under way at 0834 for Edgartown.
It had been spitting rain off and on overnight and as we worked to clear the mooring. Once underway the rain held off and we powered with the current making 8.5 knots. Our fluxgate compass heading was now aligned, at 349 degrees, with the GPS COG (course over ground) compared with the 10-13 degree difference when headed southeast.
It was a routine ride back to Edgartown. About half way the wind got up to 6 -7 knots and we set sail and began beating. The wind went light and we turned the engine back on. We had a clam chowder lunch just before entering Edgartown.
It was laundry and reprovision day. We walked up to Jeff and Jen's house and took showers and started laundry. Rick & Jess headed for Stop & Shop in the rain to check off the shopping list. We had come ashore without wet gear, and so Steve dropped Rick back at Edgartown YC with the food, his clothes and an umbrella. He took the launch out to Javelin, stowed the food and came back with wet gear.
We joined Jen for a delightful dinner at Edgartown Yacht Club -- with the 12 Meter Weatherly right outside the window with her deck at table height! EYC is about to undergo a major renovation to lift the whole clubhouse 2 feet because the old wooden pilings are deteriorating and the picture shows the many recorded high water marks from storms over the years.
Looks normal ... |
but down stbd side ... |
to ball on port side. |
Diver arrives ... |
suited up ... |
going under ... |
we're free! |
EYC High Water |
Weatherly with dinner. |
Go To Log Summary
Wednesday, Aug 16th
"Dereliction of Duty", Steve declared. "Call out the MP. Report AWOL," as Rick emerged from his cabin at the preposterously late reporting time of 0800. Yet is was a delightful, peaceful night's sleep without the burble and grinding of the trapped mooring line of yesterday.
Steve set the priorities for the day to be charging the batteries, trying to remove the excess ice on the cold plate in the freezer, and then cooling the freezer and fridge. We had borrowed a hair dryer from Jen last night. Rick set to work first removing all of the remaining food from the freezer to an ice bag. The hair dryer did the trick and in about 25 minutes most of the crusted ice was removed and the food replaced. The generator had been started to provide 110 volts for the hair dried without running down the batteries, and now it was turned off and the engine started. The compressor system on the main engine is much better at getting the freezer and fridge cold than the 110 volt system run from the generator. In another 20 minutes the fridge and freezer temperatures were back in normal operating ranges and we declared victory.
For the first time in several days that we awoke to clear skies and 8 knots of wind. Perfect sailing weather. We restocked the drink cooler with water, iced tea and regular and diet coke. Steve declared chores done and time to go sailing at 0930.
Getting under way involved removing and stowing the two fenders hung on the starboard side where the tender comes alongside, closing up the boarding gate, moving the two spinnaker and one jib halyard back from the forward pulpit to the mast, and putting the halyard on the main. We cast off at 0941.
Beautiful sailing with a north wind building to 4 -17 knots. Javelin easily reaches 8 knots on a close reach as we sailed northeast for an hour. Tacking to the west, we were doing 9.6 knots over the bottom with the current as we laid our course north of Hedge Fence shoal. We rounded Hedge Fence at 1138 and eased off toward West Chop at the northern-most point of Martha's Vineyard. At 1150 we did a Javelin gybe and headed for East Chop and the reach back to Edgartown. With wind gusts topping out at 23 knots, Javelin hit 10 knots boat speed and it wasn't long before we were back to the Edgartown outer channel buoys. We dropped sails at 1306, and were on our mooring at 1323. A leisurely wrap lunch and a holding tank pumpout, and we waited for Jen and kids to arrive for an afternoon kids sail.
We powered Javelin to right off the Edgartown YC and the launch came out and delivered Jen, Livi and Aven aboard at 1620. The wind had gone light, so first Livi steered us out around two big powerboats. Aven wanted to explore down below so Rick followed and answered an endless string of questions. Livi then wanted below and then they both wanted to take off their lifejackets. While they explored below, Steve gave Jen a lesson in running the engine, shifting gears and generally driving the boat under power. Both the girls and Jen reached their attention spans at about the same time and we dropped them back at EYC at 1735.
We all agreed that since we didn't have Brian aboard, we had none the less eaten all of the allotted food. So, we agreed on just chicken and mixed veg with neither rice nor pasta. A quick prep was poaching the chicken, then finishing it in oil, butter, garlic, rosemary and capers. Delicious.
Wednesday morning ... |
great sail. |
Edgartown YC |
Livi's happy ... |
Aven sort of |
Giant Arabella |
Schooner flying ... |
Black Dog. |
Lots of toys ... |
mean look. |
Happy campers. |
Dusk ... |
Ducks & gulls ... |
all is well. |
Go To Log Summary
Thursday, Aug 17th
Oh well, French Toast for breakfast. Light wind so we powered out of Edgartown and through Woods Hole. With zero wind, we turned off the engine and drifted in the middle of Buzzards Bay for an hour, and had a sandwich. That seemed to please the wind gods and slowly the breeze filled in from the south. By 1400 we had nice sailing at 6 - 7 knots.
Around 1500 we tacked to avoid a shoal and promptly snagged a lobster pot. Usually this is not a big deal, but this time, after shaking it free, we had power in forward gear but none in reverse. A check in the engine compartment verified that the shaft turned in both directions but apparently the feathering prop would not open in reverse. We hailed the harbormaster in Cuttyhunk to ask if they had a diver, which they did. We did a very gentle, slow docking at the end of the pier at Cuttyhunk.
One of our targets for Cuttyhunk was to get lobsters from the shack on the dock. We had arrived in time and ordered 3 one and a quarter pounders. We splurged and ordered them cooked - an extra $2 each. Simple lobster dinner with corn and rolls - but delicious.
Dale the diver arrived about 1930, and as at Nantucket, in ten minutes he surfaced with about four feet of line that had been wrapped in such a way that forward worked, but reverse didn't. A quick start of the engine confirmed that all was well.
The "million dollar light" inspired both Jess and Rick to click away.
Thursday breakfast |
Paddle boat has ... |
canine lookout. |
Under way ... |
light air ... |
Woods Hole ferry |
glassy calm ... |
Woods Hole |
Woods Hole docks |
3 knot current |
Enjoying life. |
Welcome to ... |
Cuttyhunk ... |
Fix reverse ? |
Diver finds ... |
wrapped line. |
Lobster pound ... |
provided dinner. |
Picture perfect ... |
evening sail ... |
all is well. |
Go To Log Summary
Friday, Aug 18th
Rain is forecast for later in the day, so we finished our McHank breakfast and shoved off the Cuttyhunk dock at 0720. The humid south wind was close and sticky, but about dead abeam of our course to Newport. We hoisted sail at 0753. Steve called for wet gear to be ready as cellphone radar showed rain moving east toward us. 0823 light rain sprinkles begin - ports closed - Buzzards Bay tower now aft the beam. The wet gear worked as the rain then stopped. Wind increasing a bit to 16 knots as we pass west of R2 south of Sakonnet Point at 0916 making 8.6 knots over the bottom.
Brenton Reef guards the entrance to Narragansett Bay and we rounded R2A and R4 with 17 knots of wind at 1006. A neat "Javelin Gybe" had us aimed at Ft. Adams at the entrance to Newport Harbor at 1024, and sails down abeam of the fort at 1048. Cell radar still showed large areas of rain and thunderstorms approaching. We got our mooing assignment (# 707) and headed for Jamestown to refuel. We managed to get fuel aboard and back on mooring 707 in Newport Harbor by 1135 - and still no rain.
Our last crew member for the cruise, Michael, was scheduled to arrive by train, bus and cab at Jamestown at 1240. Connecting with Steve by phone and still being on schedule, we dropped the mooring at 1216, picked up Michael at Jamestown at 1240, and we were just about back to Newport when the rain caught up with us. After picking up the mooring we retreated below for a lunch of Paul's Chili as the rain pattered in waves across the deck. Steve declared it Nap Hour at 1400.
Not long enough. Though lucky enough to be secure on a mooring, the rain pelted and a few claps of thunder rolled for the better part of three hours. Brian called about 1730 and had a simple trip out to Javelin on the NYYC launch Navette. Lots of catching up and some nibbles as Brian packed up his gear that he had brought aboard back on August 10th. One of his requests when planning the meals was pork chops, so we had porkchops, green beans almondine and applesauce. Since it was the only moment we would have Brian as part of the full crew, we finished off the meal with Javelin Shortcake. (Crushed Oreos, blueberries, and whipped cream.)
Since Brian was driving back to Rye tonight, we called the launch Navette for a ride ashore shortly after 1900. There was a break in the rain, though the wind was still about 15 knots. Five minutes later Navette arrives, and with it a waterfall of fresh rain! It was an early bunk time with the prospect of more rain overnight.
Friday morning ... |
wind and speed. |
That is a ... |
135' J Boat |
Michael's aboard! |
Another J heads out. |
Brian comes aboard |
Steve, Jess, Michael |
Michael made this ... |
deck protector. |
Steve, Brian, Rick Michael, Jess |
Someone out sailing ... |
Brian's leaving ... |
Here's Navette ... |
but GULLYWASHER!!! |
Go To Log Summary
Saturday, Aug 19th
Heavy rain and wind overnight, but all secure. Glassy calm, humid at 0800.
In Michael's honor, we had our last big breakfast of the cruise. Parsley-dusted scrambled eggs with celery, onions and cheese, pennyed Kilbasa, and hot biscuits with options for butter, jam or peanut butter. (In Brian's honor, we also put Ketchup and tobasco on the table.)
Under way at 0839, we encountered large rolling swells from the southeast running up to 5' as we powered south toward Point Judith. Several times Javelin put her bow into waves that washed down the deck. A few of the Ida Lewis Distance race big boats were trying to work their way north into Newport against the light 2-3 knot winds and ebb current. They had been out all night in the thunderstorms and strong winds that had created the swells. We rounded Pt. Judith at 1007 and turned west for Watch Hill.
By 1104 the wind gods had favored us with 10 knots of southwest wind and we began beating west at 6 - 7 knots. With wind increasing to 15 knots we had a delightful sail with Michael at the helm in full racing mode. We tacked south at the normal Watch Hill entrance to Fishers Island Sound to enter by Lords Passage, so we could avoid several short tacks and have time for Rick to serve lunch sandwiches. We entered FIS at 1344 and dropped sail at 1403.
We powered into the Mystic River and stopped at Noank for a holding tank pumpout at 1437. That done in 10 minutes, we wound up waiting at the railroad bridge for a train to go by, then waited another 20 minutes for the Mystic River Drawbridge into Mystic Seaport to open at 1540. It only opens at 40 minutes after the hour in summer to minimize disruption to auto traffic visiting the seaport. We were secure at the far north dock by 1600.
After checking in and getting the air conditioning started, we only had 45 minutes to visit the new exhibition building before it closed at 1700. One of its exhibits was about Dazzle Camouflage used on warships in World War I where of 1200 ships painted in Dazzle, only 11 were sunk by German submarines, while 1 of 4 not painted were being sunk. Then on to our traditional steak and salad dinner for Michael's first night aboard and the usual early bunk time.
No wind Saturday ... |
so what?! |
Fort Adams ... |
docks a new ... |
sail training ship Oliver Hazard Perry |
Tough for racers |
Beavertail Light |
Michael's in charge ... |
doing 7.3 knots. |
Having fun ... |
approaching Watch Hill |
Mystic River lighthouse |
Mystic River |
into Mystic River ... |
postcard picture ... |
railroad bridge ... |
classic motorboat ... |
Schooner gives ... |
Day Sails. |
Mystic Seaport ... |
drawbridge only opens ... |
40 minutes ... |
after each hour. |
Seaport cruiser ... |
Schooner wharf ... |
Seaport center ... |
construction building ... |
working boats ... |
catboat ... |
Lighthouse point ... |
whaling ship ... |
Charles W. Morgan ... |
& mighty Javelin. |
Find Jess. |
Go To Log Summary
Sunday, Aug 20th
Sunday morning we enjoyed breakfast and then walked the various parts of Mystic Seaport. Steve is a benefactor, and we fly the Mystic "M" burgee when in port. Mystic Seaport is a working replica of a typical seaport of the mid 1800s. That was the peak of the whaling industry, when lighting and machinery oil depended on oil from whales. The combination of the discovery of petroleum in Pennsylvania in the 1850s and the over-hunting of whales eventually spelled the demise of the whaling industry. But at its peak, it was the best the world could offer.
Walking the buildings and streets of Mystic brings it all to life. A current project is the restoration of the 1955 era replica of the Mayflower. Just standing under the massive timbers and frames and planking of this (only) 67 year old ship takes your breath away when you consider that the original was built over 400 years ago. In one picture below, Steve and Jess are next to a replacement piece of wood from a single tree for part of the foredeck -- one person couldn't lift it!
Enjoy the pictures, but, if you like ships and the sea, put Mystic Seaport on your bucket list. We wrapped up our early morning tour and were casting off to make the 1040 bridge opening back down the Mystic River. We cleared the railroad bridge at 1048 and then clear of the Mystic River into Fishers Island Sound at 1113.
Though we had clear skies, the wind forecast varied between moderate 5 - 10 or up to 20 knots. We had tucked in a reef while back at Mystic and set that when we were in open water. With only about 12 -13 knots, we soon shook out the reef and went to full sail. Steve called for a course to Plum Gut, essentially from the north side of the eastern end of Long Island Sound to the south side. This stretch of water is called The Race -- it's where about 5 feet of water for the 100 miles west to New York City roars out of Long Island Sound on every ebb tide. Though we had good wind and were making 8 knots, the ebb tide was running at 4 knots and as we headed south, we were swept 4 miles east out of LSI. That put us east of Gardiners Island at the extreme eastern end of Long Island and we then had to beat back against the westerly wind to try to get to the southern entrance to Long Island Sound at Plum Gut.
Our original Plan called for a night back at 3 Mile Harbor or Greenport -- essentially where we were headed. So Steve held on to Cedar Point -- where we had started to round Shelter Island back at the beginning of the second week of the cruise. Then we tacked back toward Plum Gut and fought our way back west into Long Island Sound to Westbrook, finally arriving at 1844.
Sunday morning ... |
at Mystic Seaport ... |
New building ... |
great design ... |
bright morning ... |
Viking ship ... |
fierce figurehead ... |
Charles W. Morgan |
quiet street ... |
tavern ... |
cigar store indian ... |
Oyster company ... |
main shipyard ... |
great engine running ... |
Refit for the ... |
Mayflower replica ... |
bow view ... |
foredeck piece - too heavy to lift! |
Classic outboards. |
Bridge open ... |
coming in. |
Varnished beauty. |
North dumpling |
Across The Ebb See green boat?! |
Plum Gut Light |
In to Westbrook. |
Go To Log Summary
Clear Sailing.
Rick Van Mell vanmells@ix.netcom.com